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Re: [T3] Rust killer?


Sounds like a decent ride.

Really, the only way to get rid of rust is to get it down to bare
metal, weld in replacement stuff where necessary, then get it painted
right away.  I've used a number of different products, most have
phosphoric acid in them, converts the rust to iron phosphate.  If the
rust is into the seams, the paint-type converters won't touch that.  I
favor the solution-type prep and prime that is blue and is of
water-like consistency.  This at least has some chance of getting into
the seams and cracks and doing some good.  I just use a pump-type
spray bottle with it.  If you have a local body-shop supply store, you
might check with them for various products.  If you live where they
put a lot of salt on the road, you can keep fighting the rust or get a
junker and drive that during the winter.  My car came out of Nebraska,
had lots of such holes.  Salt there will eat holes in fenders that you
can stick a fist through in a couple of years.  Fortunately, I'm out
of that area now, all they use here is fine gravel that will crack
your windshield and strip your paint.

You might want to take your front fenders(wings) off and see how much
damage there is to the body at the rear of the fenders.  Mine had some
pretty good-sized holes through the body into the cabin from road muck
getting packed in there and promoting rust.  Seems like there's
pockets at the rear on either side that collect mud and muck and it
never gets washed out unless you hose it out.  The tie bar inside the
right front fender had totally disappeared, just had a stub left
sticking out.


On Thu, 8 Oct 1998 09:12:22 +0200 , you wrote:

>Anyway, I«ll just made an agreement to buy a rather nice «73 squareback LE,
>Sumatra green, and with only 11 500 km on the odo. It has been running in
>Umea ( Swedish city, 650 km north of Stockholm) and is in quite good
>condition. However, the front wings, the front and the wheel openings on the
>back wings have the paint partly blistered off and have begin to rust. They
>do need some restauration. I wonder if anyone of you other T3-freaks out
>there can give me some advise. I have noticed that some of you have used a
>rust converting paint called "POR-15". Is it good? Does the protection
>really last, or am i better off going the traditional way with sand
>blasting, acid treatment and conventional anti-rust paint? I haven«t found
>this particular brand here in Sweden. Turtle«s "Rust Master" can be found on
>every gas station, but is that product equal with  "POR-15"? Is it good,
>also?
>I don«t want to paint "Green lady" with some shit that only capsule the rust
>for a while, being far worse off in a few years, after spending a fortune on
>repaint and other stuff.
>
>Please let me know your experiences in the "war against rust" (which is a
>common problem here in Sweden. Moisture and lots of road salt is killing our
>babies!)
>
>Bye for now!
>
>/Karl-Olov Sandin

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