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Toby! As Jim explained, it can work for a while with some epoxy/metal powder glue, too. On the -59 bug with the converted T3 engine I mentioned before, I did a similar repair that lasted for several years. OK, it was not exactly similar - it was even worse! On that engine I had installed an external oil filter ( oh, no - her he goes again...) the classical way: high volyme pump, pump cover with oil outlet fitting and returned the the oil into the oil galley at the usual place, right above the reduction valve, next to the disti. After a while a crack developed across over where the pipe fitting was threaded into the case, >from the the fitting and towards the oil cooler. And it squirted oil all over the place *sigh*. You should seen the smoke puffs when the oil dripped on to the hot headers...to the other trafficants amusement! Anyway, I took out the fitting, cleaned up the area with "Brake-cleen" - some strong solvent (ethylacetate I think) that removes all oil film, and grinded a little ditch (1-2 mm V-shape) along the crack and rughed up the surface about an inch on both sides. Then I applicated the epoxy/metal gunk over the area, armoured with a little piece of alu net (as when patching rust holes...;-) After a good time of hardening I could get the parts together and keep on driving happily for over 8000 miles! At last the leak came back, though, because of a malfunctioning cooling thermostat and severe engine overheating. That opened the crack again, unfortunaly in the middle of nowhere. Had to get a trailer and tow the sucker 200 miles! After that I resigned, and sold her away... what a bitter end, but love often turns sour like that, does it not? Good luck! Karl-Olov Sandin Murphy«s first law (I think) : " If anything can go wrong -it usually does"... ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org