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I hadn't checked my mail in about a week, so I hadn't realized anyone responded to my posting. I should say something to address some of every ones uncertainties. The engine shop that built the engine is a good all-around-stock-everything rebuild shop, and performance type 1's. They probably had never been confronted with an anything but stock type III situation. Their lack of investigation (such as lowering the front end a smidgen) on such things as placement of a SECONDARY oil cooler is what I find fault with them. That is the case for me, that this oil cooler is a SecondarY, the stock placement for an original DOES have the original oil cooler in place. This is what led my intuition to believe that the original placement of the secondary cooler was heating rather than cooling the oil, because when I by-passed the secondary oil cooler, the temp was noticeably five degrees cooler than with the secondary cooler. No, the stupid shop did not include a thermostat, but I am planning an instal of one while the front end is up in the air, while I'm working on new shocks and lowering the front two splines. (By the way, Thanks Toby for a push in the right direction on the lowering, it wasn't too hard at all.) In addition to a thermostat, I will be fabricating a permanent mount for the cooler, with a protective, but also louvered piece of 0.063" 5052 Aluminum, to slightly "scoop" air towards the cooler. It should look something like a L. Also, while I have another car to drive, I will be putting new plungers and springs into the case. I figure that it is a cost effective way to try by doing to find out if the springs and plungers are damaged or not functioning correctly. As for if the transmission being altered gearing-wise is cause for the hot oil problem, I am skeptical. I have to drive on the freeway a few times a week and rapping the engine trying to stay at 65 on a 75mph freeway was really making me cringe. I was brought up with a few main things to try to stay away from: One; to never align-bore a case, because only about one shop in a million will mate the case halves perfectly to do the job right. Two; to, at all costs, avoid rapping out the engine. So instead of 60-65mph at 4000rpm, I'm doing 70-73 at 3800rpm. I warrant to myself that the higher driving speeds of today require me to lower my engine speed a bit at the higher speeds. Granted, that this is only done on the freeway, where the driving speed is almost uninterrupted, and on the slower streets, I'm usually doing the speed limit or lower. So if anyone read this far, I will tell you that my temp came down to a good 180 degrees F for both in town and on the freeway. I think that moving the cooler up front for more air flow greatly helped for the freeway drive, and does just enough to keep the temp OK for in town. ALSO-- my pressure doesn't drop below 8-10 psi in town. The real problem is getting off the freeway, which has been helped by the cooler oil now. It only makes the idiot light flash on (which is at 7psi for the pressure gauge sender I have from VDO), so I think checking the plungers and installing that thermostat are going to be the end of my problems. WHEEW! AND-- thankfull enough that I work at a lube joint/Texaco during the night for extra cash, I happen to change my oil two, maybe three times a week (I get bored)and have found that the new Penzoil actually does better for me than castrol:) Thanks for all your help. Nathaniel Miller '66 Squareback. '75 beetle _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]