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(Chime, chime!) I've heard that, as a rule of thumb, 1.9L is about as far as one should go in terms of engine cooling as well as well. Yeah, my motor kicks butt, but the compression is 8:1 and though it brings up my hp it also increases the heat produced. So, yes, I do have a problem with overheating but it's not bad like the metal-burning smell and smoking engine like when an engine REALLY overheats. She just runs hotter than stock. For my purposes I'm still considering putting in a secondary, thermo-controlled oil cooler. On the next rebuild I'll probably have the compression ratio dropped (along with a drop in hp) to keep the extra heat output down (and then I may not need a secondary cooler). Higher compression, though it gives more hp, also makes the engine hotter. But there are other ways to help extract hp like engine balancing, blueprinting, porting and polishing, and quality parts and service (read: not a cheap "real deal" engine!). I might add that a slightly bigger engine, equipped with FI and a computerized ignition system would produce more smooth, reliable power and get better gas mileage than an equivalent carbed engine with stock ignition. One of these days when I can afford a $1200 or so after-market FI system I'm gonna slap one on my engine. These modifications/applications allow the engine to operate more efficiently thus "bringing out" more power and increasing engine life. Talk to any racer and there are many things that can help extract more power from an engine, some are just fractional like using synthetic oil while others give more tangible results like an improved ignition, exhaust headers and ratio rockers (no, these are not math teachers who are into Led Zepplin!). Best thing to do is talk with a couple of GOOD engine builders and explain what you are looking for in an engine (more power, better gas mileage, more low end torque, high end torque, high revving engine, FI, carbed, turbo, nitrous, etc.). They can tell you what will and will not work. Find out if they will do the special stuff like balancing, porting, etc. Any guarantees, warrantees? Pricing will enter the picture and you should ask for an estimate (<-- see that word? it means "a rough guess"). When you find your builder find out what will be done and get a better estimate. Good engine builders will have already built many different styles of engines and should be able to give you an exact quote. And don't forget about shipping and if they require a core. And who's gonna remove/install the engines? And if you can't work on your engine can your VW mechanic? I had to take my engine to a shop that worked on Porsches and other old imported sports cars for some repairs as they were much more familiar with beefed up engines (example: my pulley crank is balanced, torqued at 125'/# and secured with Loc-tite). Whew! Toby "The voice of experience" Erkson air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email responses '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, ORPCA member Portland, Oregon, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/8501/ ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: 1776 or 1904cc motor in fastback??? Author: Boyd Drew [SMTP:Boyd_Drew@notes.teradyne.com] at MSXGATE Date: 3/31/98 4:29 AM I have been told (when I was building a motor for my Notchback) that there isnt enough cooling available for a type III to build reliably over 1835. But then again (chime in anytime toby!) another listee has a 2 liter moter in his square and raves about the result, so Im of the opinion that it is personal preference. As with any beefed motor, the quality of the construction and materials will be a large determining factor in your engine's lifespan...Im of the opinion that if you build it right, you can have whatever you want.