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Oh!, Ok I know what you can try to use but i dont know if gas will disolve is but you know that LOC-TITE stuff?? Try the 910 or 9XX something its in a blue bottle and that stuff is 100X stronger than superglue and if you use it to lock a bolt with, you can count on it never coming out. try it! I think that would be your best bet. >From Chris Swafford:www.geocities.com/motorcity/garage/4265/ 537Buckeye 36LSB S.W. Corner of Cinti,Oh In the Hills 71'Beautiful stock Squareback half in primer 73'Squareback (More than solid) 68'Bug w/swingaxle (I hate thoes)Oh well! On Thu, 9 Jul 1998 15:20:13 -0400 Gurrola_J <Gurrola_J@BLS.GOV> writes: >On the top of each carb where the fuel line attaches to is a brass >tube >that is press fit to the carburetor. That is the damn thing I'm >talking >about. > >The one on the drivers side is the one that has come loose from the >carburetor when I tried to remove the fuel line. > >Does that make it a little clearer. Go and see where you fuel line >attaches to your carb and tell us what you see. > >---------- >From: swaffordvw@juno.com[SMTP:swaffordvw@juno.com] >Sent: Thursday, July 09, 1998 12:57 PM >To: type3@vwtype3.org >Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Inlet- Solex 32 dual carbs. > >The fitting? Are you talking about where the gas goes in to the carb? >or >WHAT DAMN FITTING ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? you have me lost. I have >32PDSIT's on both of my squarebacks and you have me lost. > >I need a idle cutoff deal but instead of the but off it just screws in >and has 4 holes in the sides and one on the end. I need two of these i >cant find my carb rebuilt kit paper to tell you exactly what its >called >but they make this piece with a solenoid and without i guess depending >on >the year of the car that the carb came on or something > >>From Chris Swafford:www.geocities.com/motorcity/garage/4265/ >537Buckeye 36LSB S.W. Corner of Cinti,Oh In the Hills >71'Beautiful stock Squareback half in primer >73'Squareback (More than solid) HELP ME IN GOING INSAINE >68'Bug w/swingaxle (I hate thoes)Oh well! > >On Thu, 9 Jul 1998 13:05:58 -0400 Gurrola_J <Gurrola_J@BLS.GOV> >writes: >>I have suffered yet another goddam setback in my restoration of my >>daily >>driver. I was all set to take it out and drive the damn thing when a >>fuel leak I thought I had fixed several months ago reared its ugly >>head. >>It seems that several years ago when I had the carbs rebuilt the >>mechanic reinserted the brass fuel fitting using some teflon tape and >>stuck it in there. I looked at it and didn't think too much of it >>until it started to leak recently and then I realized what a problem >I >>have. I tried using Liquid Solder but that only worked until >>yesterday >>when I noticed the leak. >> >>I thought that perhaps tapping the carb body could be the answer but >>there isn't enough material and the aluminum is sure to break the >>first >>time I would turn the fitting. >> >>Can I insert a slightly larger fitting and press fit it back on the >>carb >>body? Can I weld more material around that area so that it CAN be >>tapped? Can I fire bomb the bum who rebuilt it? >> >>Everybody get cracking on this. We are not leaving until this is >>fixed!!!! >> >>As a side note: This, to me, seems to be a weakness of the otherwise >>splendid Solex dual carbs. If I, or we, can come up with a solution >I >>think we should send out a TSB on it. These carbs are getting rarer > >>by >>the day and we need to keep them on the road. >> >> > >_____________________________________________________________________ >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com >Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]