Re: HELP!!!!stupid brake lines....

[ccandgc@marinternet.com (Chad)]

>
>You didn't say whether you replaced your master cylinder with the 
>later tandem one at the same time (a worthwhile thing to do.)    If 
>so, and if your first leak is in one of the two rigid lines that feed 
>the front brakes, then you would be better off replacing those lines 
>with ones made to go with the tandem cylinder.  I have good used ones 
>in stock.  Old rusty lines will often crack if you play with them.
>

        I did replace the MC with a tandem set-up. I took the front lines
        off the donor car- 72-73 square, with Sonny's help(thanks again)
        cleaned them, and they are in good shape. The outside leak
        is in the u-turn from the rear port heading back.


>Replacing the long F-R line is probably my LEAST FAVORITE T3 job of 
>all time.  It usually takes me 6-8 hours.  You have to remove the 
>driver's seat and the floor mats.  

        Is it hard to remove the drivers seat??:(

>
>New lines can be readily bent by hand, or RMMW has a cheap little 
>hand bender that works in pretty close quarters.
>
>
>Yes, you need to change the entire line.  That single line runs from 
>the MC to the Tee on top of the rear subframe just to the left of the 
>nose of the tranny.  It is conceivable that you could replace it with 
>two pieces that joined in an easy-to-get-to place in the middle, but 
>you would have to find someone that could sell you a metric bubble 
>flare coupling.  They must be out there, but I've never seen one.  
>The fittings are M10 threads.  I think there may be some changes with 
>years, VW shows two part numbers, but I think the later, longer part 
>will fit early years.
>

                RMMW sells a little coupling made for the lines-pg 153 of their
                new summer catalog. $7 tho....what about all those rubber
                gromets they recomend? Do I need all 8???

No problems thru all this, until now:(

Thanks!


Chad