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Chad, I've done quite a bit of brake line replacement, having converted my '66 Mercury Comet (not a type III, sorry Greg!) from drum brakes to discs, and re-plumbing my friend Forrest's Class 9 off-road racer. One thing I would highly suggest is a roller-type tubing bender. This will give you more control over the bend, and will not kink the tubing if used properly. Another trick I figured out is to cut pieces of stiff wire, like a coat hanger to the correct length and bend them using the tubing bender to the right shape. This gives you a good, disposable, idea of how you need to make your bends to get everything to line up properly. When you go to replace the main line (the one near the gas pedal), I would try and do the bends on one end first (I'm thinking the front, because they're more complex), get that end set in place (but not connected to the M/C) and just work very slowly and cautiously on your way to the rear of the car. Try and avoid making "extra" bends, and resist the temptation to make small adjustments without using the bender - as you've already seen by your experience. There is a tee on one of the frame horns that your transaxle mounts on that splits the line for the rear brakes. Any NAPA, or other GOOD parts store should have metric brake lines available in standard lengths to handle most of the lengths you will need, or you can order complete brake line kits from many Hot VW's advertisers, I think I got mine at Barrett Enterprises in Azusa, Ca. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out. Jake Kooser