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RE: [T3]


First, it's natural for oil pressure to be high when starting the motor in
the morning.  As the oil heats up it becomes thinner and oil pressure will
decrease.  What you are seeing appears to be normal operating pressure.  A
rule of thumb is roughly 10psi per 1000rpm.

If your car is dying at idle then something else is wrong, probably in the
carb idle circuit or distributor timing.

When checking the oil relief piston (and pressure regulator for late cases)
the piston AND bore shouldn't be scored/scratched.  Use Emory cloth to
smooth out scratches.  Deep scratches will require replacement.  A stuck
piston will either cause high pressure (stuck closed) after the engine is
warm, low pressure (stuck open) when the engine is cold, 伏n pressure
changes (piston becomes unstuck) during engine operation.

Luckily, the default position for both pistons is closed.  That's why they
rest on springs.  When the oil is cold and thick the natural pressure of the
flowing oil pushes against the piston/spring and flows through the bypass.
As the oil heats up and thins out it exerts less pressure on the
piston/spring, thus the spring pushes the piston up and less/none of the oil
is diverted.
   Toby Erkson
   air_cooled_nut@pobox.com  <-- Please use this address for email
   '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
   '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, ORPCA member
   '95 VW Jetta GL 2.0L, boringly bone-stock
   Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/

>-----Original Message-----
>I been having a oil pressure problem w/ my newly self built motor.
>
>It seems as my car warms up i lose oil pressure.  At 1100rpm i 
>get about 13psi 
>and when i'm cruising about 3000rpm i'm getting 27-30 psi. 
>Sometimes i lose
>all oil pressure alltogether at idle (car dies) I'm thinking its over
heating.
>
>I thought it might be the pressure releif valve (single releif case)
>plunger sticking so i replaced both the spring and plunger w/ 
>new ones from CB.

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