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I must agree with Keith and most others on this list, inlcuding Jim. A
properly maintained FI system will ALWAYS outperform and cost less in
the long run then ANY carbureted system. Though, I have carburetors on
my car, I bought it this way many moons ago before I discovered the
marvels of FI. I can't believe how reliable fuel injection can be. My
94 GOLF has 96K miles and the only thing I have done is the regular
required tune-ups. Absolutely troublefree. I am amazed at its
reliability. But this is the same for practically all FI systems. The
rags are out to promote their advertizers. It took me a long time to
discover this. This is done not only by the advertisements but also
their editorials and articles. Caveat Emptor!!
I yield the floor,
Jaime.
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From: Park, Keith J (CRD)[SMTP:parkkj@exc01crdge.crd.ge.com]
Sent: Friday, August 21, 1998 9:57 AM
To: 'type3@vwtype3.org'
Subject: [T3] VWT carb conversion article!
Everyone see the Oct issue of VWT?
As you might imagine I was a bit steamed with the innaccuracies and
important information left off.
So if you must convert to carbs, atleast be educated and aware of all
the pitfalls that these PR
articles leave out
First off the photo of the "complicated FI system" is totally misleading
look at it carefully...
1) an extra pressure sensor not even compatable with that system
2) an extra fuel filter.. heck! an extra fuel pump!
3)an extra pressure regulator and the wrong cold start injector.
4) a peice of intake duct also used on the carbbed models
5)a BUTCHERED harness
6)a bracket for an external oil filter!
Sure it looks complicated... look at all those extra parts! why not
throw in a few carb parts.. THEN
it will look complicated! You lay out a factory system and its so
simple, after all its the simplest
FI system ever made.
Next matter: the fuel pump, poor Mike is gonna burn to death in an
accident when his electric
pump continues to pump gas out a ruptured fuel line . There MUST be for
SAFETY's sake a fuel pump
cutoff so if the engines not running the fuel pump automatically shuts
off. This is incorporated into
the FI system.
Last matter: Power and mileage dont both increase!! this isnt
magic here or rocket science
eather. If you put in more gas to go faster and accelerate quicker your
mileage will decrease!..
unless of course you dont use the extra power available but then why did
you bolt it on? 30MPG?? NO
WAY!! maybe at a steady 60 MPH with no hills and a tailwind but at any
rate if your getting mileage
like this in town or at 70 on the highway your running too lean and you
will soon be able to see
through #3 piston. Correct mixture is CRITICAL to the type 3 as proper
cooling is a correct balance
of all the engines parameters. Running too rich is also a threat as it
will dilute the oil with fuel
and cause it to break down. Extra power?? its in his head! probably
because the FI wasnt working
properly for a long time and the car wasnt putting out properly. Ever
notice that no one (except
Gene Berg) ever dyno tests these kits as a bolt on to a stock engine?
its because the extra power
with no other modifications is negligible and remember if you make it
run rich to get more power
you'll have other problems down the road.
Starts every time? Sure! in the summer... but without chokes youll get
it started in the winter
after multiple tries and alot of pumping and revving which is REALLY bad
for a cold engine
OK... Ive vented... hopefully ive pointed out a few things to look at
before
doing the unthinkable!
Keith
parkkj@crd.ge.com
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