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Re: [T3] still won't idle....
On 13 Aug 98, at 23:58, Sonny8oy@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/13/98 3:39:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> jadney@vwtype3.org writes:
>
> > > '69 f.i., AT.
> > > timing set.
> >
> > Is it correctly set to TDC?
>
> for $50, i hope so.....
Your own timing light would cost less, and provide the reassurance
that it was done right. Remember, no one cares as much about your
car as you do.
> i twiddled about with the 4 intake manifold to air distributor boots today
> after dave suggested these may be leaking (they are old, and have absorbed
> lots of oil, so it's very possible [do you have new ones of these jim?]).
These hoses get a lot of undeserved blame. A small amount of care
when installing the intake air distributor will allow these parts to
line up nicely enough to always seal. If one seems to not align
correctly, try rotating it until the offset that it has from its past
life is in the "right" direction. I remove all the hose clamps that
other "mechanics" install on these on every engine I find them on.
> also replaced most of the fuel injection hose (long after i should
> have....); one piece may or may not have been leaking, so this can also
> only help. car drove home fine, but that was only for 10 or 15 mins, so
> hard to say for sure. will post tomorrow after i (have to) go for a 150
> mile drive....
These hoses almost never fail badly enough to affect the way the
engine operates. The reason to replace them is so your engine won't
catch fire and destroy the car.
> (jim: you were right:) the tin around the injectors/intake manifolds that
> is held on with slotted-head screws (why?) does seem like it will be
> troublesome to remove when i replace the oil cooler seals. what are
> anyone's recommendations on removing these?
I use a torch to heat the bolt heads and break the rust bond. If you
do this be VERY, VERY careful of the fuel lines and any spilled
gasoline.
Jim
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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