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Greg, I occasionally browse through the type3 list archives using a computer at my work. I do not yet have internet access on a personal machine, so I am unable to subscribe to the list. I would be grateful if you could post my note... Recently I acquired my first T3, a '70 Fastback. The PO gave me the 68-73 Bentley, Chilton, & Muir manuals (no Haynes yet). With the books and this list, I feel like I have access to the best information avilable. Here are the details (the car was like this when I got it)...originally FI engine (based on "U" prefix in engine # on the case), converted to run 32PDSIT-2,3 carbs; a Brazilian Bosch "009" distributor; and a rusty non-stock muffler/exhaust system (but it sounds OK) that says "Thunderbird" on it. When I got the car 4 months ago, I had to tow it to my garage (it had been sitting outside for several months). I drained the old fuel and replaced the cracked fuel lines, tracked down a few electrical problems, overhauled the carbs with kits from my VW FLAPS, and replaced the points, plugs, & plug wires with Bosch parts. The compression tested to 148 to 150 psi all around (good, I think?), I changed the oil, set the dwell per specs, adjusted the valves to 0.006", and set the timing to 7.5BTDC. Also managed to balance the carbs pretty close using the Unisyn. I have the car running pretty well now and drive it about 40 mi/day. Now for my many questions..Please bear with me. I'm still kind of low on that learning curve. 1) Does anyone know anything about the exhaust system that I have on there (see above)? Do I need to find a stock system, or can I wait until I get holes in the muffler? So far, everything runs and sounds OK. (Is this false security?) 2) Before the PO put the 009 on, he said there was a combination vacuum/centrifugal advance unit on there, which he took off because the diaphragm leaked. I still have the old combo unit in a box. Should I get the combo-advance unit repaired, or am I better off with the 009? Or does it come down strictly to power preference? 3) Regarding the carb set-up.. On the left(-2) carb, there's a hole on the side for the little brass tube that goes to the distributor vacuum line, right? (There's a rubber plug on mine now because the vacuum-advance distributor is replaced with a 009). OK, when I did the complete tear-down/overhaul of both carbs, I noticed on my right (-3) carb there is a little hole on the side of THAT carb, too, but no brass tube or vacuum line. This hole goes all the way through to the throat (like on the -2 carb). Should this hole be there?? Seems to me that it should be plugged since there is no vacuum line going to it. I did not take anything out of this hole when I disassembled the carb. 4) Is it essential that I get the automatic chokes re-wired? (I know Muir says no, but what does everybody else do?) It only takes a few minutes to warm the engine up with the chokes disconnected. Once warm, the engine runs quite smoothly. 5) I do not have the stock air cleaner. I have the little round EMPI paper filters over each carb, which are joined by a "T" to the crankcase breather. Is this arrangement harmful? If I could get the stock air cleaner that draws in air from the right side louvre, am I much better off? I can see how the stock cleaner might deliver cooler air to the manifolds, but it seems that the paper filters will supply air more efficiently, particularly to the left side. Any opinions? 6) I feed the engine about a quart of oil every 350 miles, but I can't tell where it's going. There are NO drips on my driveway, I do not see any blue smoke out the exhaust, and the compression looks good. The plugs are also staying pretty clean. #3 is a little darker (which I am told is normal), but not oily. I cleaned up the case pretty well, and I really don't see any obvious leaks through the seams. There IS some extra oil mess around where the oil cooler bolts on, but no puddles on the ground--ever. If all of this oil is leaking around the cooler, would it tend to leak only while I am driving? Any ideas? 7) I do not have a thermostat, and I think the heat control flaps have been stuck somehow in the open position. Is there a problem with this?? Is the extra cooling necessarily bad? Or should I hurry up and put a thermostat on and get the heat control flaps operating? I have not noticed any overheating problems (no smells, no smoke...). Maybe I should add that I am in Houston, TX, USA where the average temperature range this time of year is about 75-80F (low) to 95+F (high). My sincere thanks to all who read through my (LONG) note. I look forward to any enlightenment. And when I get my own computer, I promise to be a contributing member of the list! Please respond either to the list (I check it every few days) or to me directly at: mfuhriman@fugro.com THANKS IN ADVANCE -Mark ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/