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Wow, this is getting REALLY long! On 9 Aug 98, at 23:59, oofacts@earthlink.net wrote: > 72, dual carbs. > > So last night I get into my car and start it up. Now, I had timed it > statically at 0ยก, which according to Muir was the notch furthest to the > left, ok? Probably not, Muir is a poor source in this instance. > Started it up, it was shaking like mad. Gave it a steady stream of light > warm-up throttle, still shook when I let the gas off. Dammmit! > So I turned off the ignition, and decided to advance the timing to the > second notch. Still shook. Third notch. Still shook. Last notch, not bad > but not great. > Then just a *hair* over. Perfect. Smooth, beautiful idle. Good power but > not racing, very nice. Suspiciously nice. I just don't get it. It HAS to be > advanced too far. This may be correct if you have the late pulley that Muir is not familiar with: notch, large space, notch, large space, notch, notch. Compare this with the drawings in Bentley. > Still I'm living with it for the next few days until I get this solved. > Went home and looked at Bentley again, and thought well, maybe that 2nd > chart is right, which would make the 4th mark 7.5 BTDC, which is what Keith > recommended. Still I dont know if Keith was talking about using a strobe. If you don't have the vacuum retard, then strobe or static give about the same results. > Also, re-reading Bentley I noticed it says something Muir doesn't: pull off > the hose to the vacuum adv. diaphargm unit. When I did my timing the hose > was connected. Does it matter that much for statictiming? Does it matter at > all? On most cars the vacuum advance has an effect at idle. On all the aircooled VWs that I'm familiar with it does not. In your case it depends where the vacuum pickup point is in your carbs. You can tell by letting the engine idle and pulling off that hose; there should be no effect. If there IS, then you cannot use this vacuum advance with these carbs because the vacuum/no vacuum situation is reversed. > OK BUT, my nut goes UNDER that shaft where I cant get it completely tight. > A bit frustrating. If you have a good used clamp cheap, I want it. Tell me > how much. Give me your address. Maybe I'll pull out my speedometer while > I'm at it (but dont hold your breath) You're probably missing a washer that keeps this part from getting bent. At any rate this bolt does not need to be tight, only snug enough to keep the distributor from turning. I can fix your old clamp if you send me ALL the parts, or sell you a good used one. I can also turn your dist around for you and also fix your odometer, if you like. Email me directly. > Uh oh. Maybe I was wrong. I said it was an "040" because thats the number > thats been stamped inside an oval on the top of my distributor cap. I THINK this is a date code for the cap. > Also on the top of the cap, stamped between wire 4 and 3 is the number > 1235522056, but this isn't the OE number is it? What does OE stand for? The 10 digit number is the Bosch part #. OE stands for Original Equipment; I was referring to the VW part #. > Stamped in the dist. itself, close to the bottom under the dist. wire is a > number "022 905 205 S" AH-HA!!!! Now we're getting somewhere. This is the OE # of the dist. It is either a type 4 or 914 dist, NOT a type 3 dist. Checking my type 2 Bentley manual reveals that this is a dist from a 76-78 MT bus. It has 20-24 deg of mech advance at 3400 rpm, so 7.5 deg adv or a bit more at idle should be fine; it gives 8.5-11 deg of vac adv. This engine/dist is timed at 7.5 BTDC at idle. Your best bet might be to just try to figure out where 32 deg of adv was on your pulley and set your timing there with the engine revved to about 3500 rpm to max out the advance. Again, you need a timing light to do this. But LEAVE the vac advance disconnected if it has any effect at idle. (and I'm guessing that it does.) This is where a timing light comes in very handy. With it you can tell exactly what your advance mechanisms are doing dynamically. It will allow you to verify that your mech adv is working smoothly and that your vac adv is working as an advance rather than as a retard (do this by pulling off the hose while the engine is running and you are watching the timing with the timing light.) If the vac lines from your carbs do the "right" thing (no vac at idle, no vac at full throttle, max vac while crusing) then the best dist for you would be a 68-9 type 3 FI distributor (311 905 205 L.) Later units are almost as good. These have just about the best mech advance curve you can get, a good vac advance for good fuel economy while crusing, the right height to fit under your deck lid, have all the parts, wires, etc in the right places for your car, use the right parts (cap, rotor, points) for your car. I'm sure I have something here, if you like. > There's also some numbers stamped on the distrib over on the left under the > condenser and cap clip, but I can't see them and it's too late at night to > pull my distrib. out again. Let me know if I should. The 10 digit Bosch number should be stamped there somewhere. From that I can better verify where the dist came from, if you care. > Gotcha. I think I'm going with the -5, 0, 5, 7.5 assumption. It looks > closer to the ridiculously small and badly drawn diagram in Bentley. Okay, agreed. > And how do you guys time your engines if there's confusion about where TDC > is? How do you check valves? I avoid Muir on this point. The Bentley is correct here. For setting valves, close to TDC is good enough. The valve lash, however, should be set carefully. > Woops, sorry. I should have mentioned that I used an 8 cylinder tach/dwell > meter. Muir says 25 + or - 1 is ok using an 8 cylinder tach/dwell meter. > But I'll open the points to bring it down to 50. Okay, I thought this sounded suspiciously close to the 1/2 value. Where you are is fine. > (oh yeah, I'll check the timing again too once I get > the dwell between 45 - 50) The gap is dead-on .016" Go by the dwell, the gap is just a way to get close if you don't have a dwell meter. > Theres a big "VW 73" stamped on the crankcase. I saw it when I was visiting > Keith Park, but I can't find it now. Strange. However, stamped to the > cranckcase , under the car is the number 113 301 109 L Could this be right? > The number is just to the front of the big roundy thing in the middle > underneath the car sort of towards the center (front-to-back), stamped on > the right side. Don't know what the VW 73 might be. Cases usually weren't dated, but you should be able to date the case from the engine number, stamped in the top of the case just to the right of the split in the case, in front of the breather. It will start with a letter probably a U or X, but posssibly a T. The second number is a part number of something related to the transmission. > >Is it possible that the thermostat has been removed from this engine? This > >would make all of these things even worse.< > > Yes, how'd you know? That's on my list before summer ends Keith told me to > get one. I was just doing one thing at a time. Maybe I ws doing them in > the wrong order. > Who should I get a thermostat from? I have to look at the manual more about > this. I dont even remember where it's suposed to go or what it does. I guessed about the thermostat because this is just the kind of mod that is done by the same kind of person who cobbles all these kinds of parts together and assumes they'll work together without thought or effort. Unfortunately, the PO did this to you, and now you have taken on the responsibility of investing the extra money, as well as the thought and effort, to make this car drivable again. If you don't, it will soon be just a bit more fodder for the crusher. You can probably buy a thermostat almost anywhere, it's the same as the beetle part. The hard part will be determining what other parts you're missing and finding those parts. Installing these parts is a big job. Study the Bentley manual. I probably have anything you need. Re the thermostat system: Any time I have an engine apart I saw a shallow slot in the right end of the cooling flap shaft, parallel to the flaps themselves. Then I can stick a screwdriver in this slot at any time and easily verify not only the position of the flaps, but also whether they are free to move and whether they open as the engine heats up. VW should have added this feature at the factory. This is the shaft that is "in your way" when you try to loosen the dist clamp, so at least you know that the shaft, and probably the flaps, are still in your engine. Jim - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe