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Air-cooled and water-cooled engines are quite different from each other, obviously, but are also quite the same, obviously. So it depends on what one is doing as to if it will work with both types of engines or only on one. Applying the basic principles of engines and oils, below is what I would do for a water-cooled, more modern engine. This is my opinion only and I welcome any additional comments (if you send comments to the group then please DO NOT include my personal eddress as well). First, the engine should be in good operating condition so if there are any changes in performance, be it good or bad, it can be attributed to the oil switchover. Drain all of the oil and replace the oil filter. Use a synthetic *blend* oil that has about the same weight or whose weight range includes what was previously used. Drive around like you (or she) normally would and try to pay attention to the exhaust, looking primarily for excess smoke. You probably should drive behind her before and after the oil change so you can see if there is any difference in exhaust smoke. Also monitor the oil level and see if it is staying (or dropping) at its normal level (if it consumed oil make sure that its consumption is at least consistent :) If everything is okay then after 100-200 miles drain the oil, replace the oil filter and oil up with the same stuff (synthetic blend). If you can, inspect the inside of the filter (the actual fiber/paper element) to see if there's a lot of crap in it or not (a hacksaw works great!). Hopefully, there won't be. Continue to monitor the oil level and exhaust, just to make sure, and keep this in her car up to 1000 miles (see item 2 below). If everything is still okay then change the oil filter and replace the oil with the same stuff. Continue up to the normal oil change interval or 3000 miles, whichever comes first, then: 1. If everything is still hunky-dory then change the oil, oil filter, and use your/her favorite pure synthetic (mine is Mobil 1). Monitor oil level and exhaust closely. Pure synthetic and blends are stiff different animals! a. If everything is still fine then at the halfway point of the normal oil change interval change the oil and oil filter. Fill up with the same oil and continue with the normal oil change interval. After a couple of normal oil changes it may be safe to lengthen the oil change intervals, up to double the time span, at your discretion. b. If there are problems then switch back to the blend (after changing the oil and oil filter). This will offer her a little more protection than plain conventional oil. Oil change intervals should remain the same, however. 2. If problems arise, like greater than normal oil consumption and/or exhaust smoke then revert back to the conventional oil. Be sure to change the oil filter when you change the oil. This can be a bit on the spendy side, especially the constant changing of oil filters, but it's better to spend a little money on safety then spending a lot of money on an engine rebuild! Toby Erkson, air_cooled_nut@pobox.com '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L '75 Porsche 914 1.8L Portland, Oregon, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/8501/ P.S. I've spent over an hour on this problem, editing and revising -- it's not something that I just whipped out -- so there was thought put into it. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: synth oil in high milers? Author: type-3-errors@umich.edu at SMTPGATE Date: 11/17/97 5:32 PM What is the going thinking on adding synthetic oil to a high mileage motor for the first time? Compression is within tolerable limits...It's my girlfriends '79 Mustang V6 (yech)...