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I had the same problem. I used Locktite and it stopped. A self-locking
nut would probably work best. One problem I noticed was the stud on the
lower shock mount isn't quite long enough. But for an after-market setup
it's not bad and I like it.
Something to remember when mounting the sway bar is to have the suspension
in its normal, weighted state. Thus, when mounting the bar put the car up
on ramps or, better yet, work in a mechanics pit like what you see at those
(nasty) fast oil change shops or on a full tire lift like at a wheel
alignment shop. This sounds exactly like what was NOT done when Machfive
(go Speed, go!) had the bar installed, since the bolt looks like it's going
to sheer off and it's bumping the torsion housing. This is similar to what
happened to me when I installed my bar, which is why I'm going to reinstall
it by moving the bar further back.
Also, you don't *have* to use the bushings and bolts that came with the kit. On
my rear one I went to the local hardware store and bought a pair of shorter,
thicker bolts and Nylocks (sp? nylon self-locking nuts, very common). Oh, I did
make sure the bolts were the strongest I could find. I then went to a general
auto store and nabbed a set of urethane anti-sway bushings for pick-up trucks
(because the bolts I had were thicker). I only have one big bushing instead of
four smaller ones per side. This firms the anti-sway properties of the bar as
well. I will be doing the same for the front bar.
If you want better handling and aren't overtly concerned about ride comfort then
you DO WANT an anti-sway bar in FRONT. That's why the Beetle's have them there,
that's why the Type III's have them there (the upper tube is considered an
anti-sway bar). A front sway bar will give more noticable handling improvement
than a rear one (for a rear engined & rear drive vehicle). The rear should just
have stiffer springs and/or shocks. If you have a limited-slip differential
then it'd be ok to have a bar in back. I have my bar in back and like it, but
I'm also aware of the fact that I could lose some frictional drive grip on the
inside tire if I hit a corner too fast.
I've found that autocrossers are the best to talk to about handling as this is a
key factor in their cars. They can best explain what happens when you add too
much spring, too stiff a sway bar, etc.
Greg, if ya ever get yours off and want to sell it gimme a call. Just make sure
you take several *good* pictures of it *before* you remove it so I have an idea
on how to reinstall it. Also, what is the diameter of the bar? The ones I have
are 19mm -- not 22mm but pretty damn good nonetheless!
Toby "poster child for VWofA in their 'Drivers Wanted' ads" Erkson
air_cooled_nut@pobox.com
'72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L
'75 Porsche 914 1.8L for sale
Portland, Oregon, USA
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: WARNING: anti-sway problems...
Author: type-3-errors@umich.edu at SMTPGATE
Date: 6/3/97 7:04 AM
At 2:27 AM -0000 6/3/97, machfive wrote:
>well, the jury is almost in about the front anti-sway bar. DONT BUY ONE!!
>I'm probably going to have to remove mine and try to get my money back for
>this simple reason. The L-bracket that fits on the lower control arm is
>supposed to be held on with the nut that also holds the lower part of the
>shock absorber. Twice now the nut has fallen off, which created a risk of
Mine (Empi) mounts in a completely different fashion--much like a
stock Beetle anti-sway bar. The shock mounts are not involved at all.
I'm actually having the opposite problem. I don't drive like a
maniac any more ;) and would rather have it removed... but I can't get the
dang thing off! The clamps are totally stuck!!! :-o
-Greg
'71 squareback
'63 Beetle