Re: No head temp sensor.

["Melissa & Jim" <jadney@vwtype3.org>]

On 11 Jul 97, Jason Renville wrote:

> Recently I bought a use engine for an incredibly low price.  I would
> like to use this in my FI type 3.  When the motor was rebuilt new
> heads were installed.  These heads do not have the threaded boss for
> the head temp sensor.  Is there any known alternate mounting method
> that someone knows for sure works?  I.E. If you have personally JB
> welded this in place and it works I would like to here from you.  I
> am installing carbs temporarily but since every component on my FI
> works  I would like to reinstall it later.  

Thanks for considering the later installation of the FI, I think it 
is a wise choice.  I would go ahead and buy a correct replacement 
head and put it in.  I think these can be had some places for not too 
much more than the standard heads since they are also used on the 
right side on beetles (it is the same head isn't it???)

This boss needs to have both good thermal and electrical contact with 
the head and the sensor.  Since you need it to do this for the long 
term, I don't think this is the place to try the easy way out.

Lest you all think I am just never willing to take a chance.  Let me 
tell you about the time I saved a 71.  I saw her with one window shot 
out.  She also had a bent lower training arm from a curb strike and 
the engine leaked oil like crazy.

I bought it for $75 and drove it home 4 miles.  Used 2 quarts of oil.
Replaced window before it rained again.  Tore all the sheet tin off 
the left side of the engine and found that the oil leak was a crack 
in the block just above and to the rear of #4.  Cracked right into an 
oil galley.  Ground into the crack and filled it with aluminum-filled 
epoxy and reassembled the engine.  Drove it around a bit and 
discovered that the oil leak was now coming out of the stud hole 
where the crack terminated.

Went down the basement and studied another case.  Removed sheet tin.  
Chipped away epoxy.  I then drilled a hole all the way through the 
crack and into the case interior, between the oil galley and the 
stud, being careful to miss where I thought the oil galleys were.

Then I epoxied up the outside of my newly drilled hole.

Of course I could not STOP the leak.  But I could prevent it from 
leaking outside.  The hole allowed the oil to leak back into the 
interior of the case and not be lost.

It actually worked for long enough for me to fix the trailing arm and 
build a new engine which probably took 6 months.

My wife drove the car for 10 years after that.  One of the best cars 
I have ever had.

Jim
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       Melissa Kepner                                    Jim Adney
       jadney@vwtype3.org              jadney@vwtype3.org
                             Laura Kepner-Adney
                             Madison, Wisconsin
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