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Cold Start Systems


>From: "Woolston Craig" <cwoolsto@ladc.lockheed.com>

>I happen to have taken his advice and on my 2 Type III's ('70 and '71) and 
have the components installed but the wires 
>disconnected to the temp sensor (the big round one by the air cleaner, NOT 
the head or air intake) and the cold start injector.

Put them back, mother nature will disable them most of the time in your 
climate. Connecting the connectors is just a good way to keep the harness 
out of harms way.
  I 
>am also missing the small micro switch that is normally mounted above the 
throttle arm, such that it would be depressed if you 
>follow the instructions on the dash for starting the car that say to 
depress the accelerator fully when cranking the engine.

This switch is the kickdown switch for the automatic transmission.  It is 
frequently useful, and has nothing to do with the cold start system.

 The biggest problem was poor acceleration, but I believe 
>that to be pressure sensor problems that made the mixture too rich for the 
thinner air (6000+ feet above S.L) 

I think the pressure sensor compensates nicely for the loss of atmospheric 
pressure, but ALL normally aspirated (non-supercharged) engines lose power 
at altitude.

I now operate the 
>cars in the high desert where the winter temperature can get to the high 
teens at night and early morning hours.  And again have 
>had no trouble starting the car.  (Not that cold by eastern standards 
either).  I was speculating that the reason for the 
>cold start injector was that it takes awhile for the system to re prime 
after it has been sitting for a few hours.

If the fuel loop has gone dry then the CSV will be dry also.

 My normal 
>start procedure is to turn the key on and off 2-3 times before cranking to 
get the fuel pressure up.

This is a good and useful practice.

  When doing this the car 
>normally starts immediatly, whereas if I just crank it with no priming it 
takes several revolutions for the engine to start.

I have one car that has a very bad problem with this.  On this one only, I 
have installed a momentary contact switch which I can depress to run the 
pump without running the starter.  If I do this for 10 seconds and pump the 
pedal the pump will clear the air out of the lines and the car will start 
easily.

NOTE:  for very important safety reasons you should not be tempted to just 
wire in a permanent switch that is not momentary.  Do not disable the fuel 
pump relay.  This could be a matter of life or death.

Jim
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       Melissa Kepner                                    Jim Adney
       jadney@vwtype3.org              jadney@vwtype3.org
                             Laura Kepner-Adney
                             Madison, Wisconsin
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