Re: rebuilt engine

[jadney@vwtype3.org (Melissa & Jim)]

>From: James Richard Watson <jwatson@polymail.cpunix.calpoly.edu>

>I don't recommend reusing a case that needs to be align-bored.  These
>cases were not designed to be reused and align-boring can not be done as
>well as in the VW factory.  This will lead to misalignment of the crank in
>the case.  This in turn leads to premature flywheel seal wear, piston ring
>wear (which will produce blow-by and internal case pressure) and increased
>friction which means it will run hotter.  IMHO it doesn't save you any
>money in the long run to use an align-bored case.  Who wants to rebuild an
>engine before you need to?  As for the increased displacement, I don't see
>a problem as long as you keep a good compression ratio for the fuel used
>and keep the original thermostat stuff.  Anybody else out there have
>additional thoughts? 

I know that Berg feels very strongly about this, and I respect his judgment 
on this as on other things.  But I think Berg's emphasis on high performance 
may well make a new case more important.  My own empahsis is on economy and 
longevity, the latter shared with Berg.  Of course I agree that it is 
possible to have a case that is not salvagable, but I'm afraid that I've 
pulled one real loser back into service with good results.

I have had a long history of good luck with align-bored cases.  All of them 
are stock displacement, but have counterweighted cranks.  I have done about 
a dozen, and have about 500,000 miles on them so far, although most of them 
have disappeared into the sunset with their owners over the years.  I still 
keep track of about 5 of these with no problems so far.  I own 3 with a 
forth waiting for me to find the time to build it up.  I send them to RIMCO 
in CA and they have always done a truly fine job.  Get the case savers done 
at the same time.  
Call them and get a price list first.  Read it carefully until you 
understand all the options.

You need to strip the case and ship it to them with instructions to bore the 
mains and add case savers.  A-bore price includes a set of main bearings, so 
be sure to tell them the main bearing size of the crank you will be using.

Do NOT bother having someone a-bore your case with one of the electric drill 
driven boring bars.  This is a crap shoot and you are most likely the loser.

I really don't recommend that you up the displacement this tiny bit.  I 
understand that it is tempting to try to do this cheaply, but good high 
performance stuff doesn't come cheaply and they don't bother with this level 
of stuff.  Stick with the stock size, or like Berg says, "Buy the best and 
cry once."

Whatever you do, DON'T be tempted to put in the so-called "drop-in" pistons 
and cylinders.  OD is stock, ID is larger, hence the wall is thin and they 
don't hold their shape.  If you must go oversize, do it right.  Get good 
P/Cs and get the case and heads machined to accept them.  RIMCO can do this too.

Buy a copy of the Bentley manual.  Also get a copy of:

How to Hotrod Volkswagen Engines
by Bill Fisher
published by H. P. Books, Tucson, AZ, 1970
(excellent book, well written and researched)

Study them both.

Jim
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       Melissa Kepner                                    Jim Adney
       jadney@vwtype3.org              jadney@vwtype3.org
                             Laura Kepner-Adney
                             Madison, Wisconsin
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