[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
Wow, what a lot of aggravation. If you have a 1 13/16 wrench, this should not be such a problem. First, try loosening the nuts while still attached to the engine, using the open end wrench, and some help (a hammer or an extension.) Failing that, remove everything, and use a u-bolt to tie the heat exchanger box to something that does not move (maybe a water pipe?). A couple of bolts caught in a solid vise will work as well. Since there is an angle involved here, a solid mount for the engine side of the heat exchanger is a must. You need a good wrench. 1 13/16 is the SAE equivalent of 46 mm, the correct size. If you use an adjustable wrench, do not use a pipe wrench, because it will squeeze and disform the flare nut, just making your job harder. Now you need a mechanical advantage. I have used u-bolts to attach a 6 foot pipe to my wrench handle (it is a combination wrench about 18 inches long), and the nut will move. If your wrench has only one side, like the original VW wrench, you may be able to slip a pipe over the handle. Do yourself a favor, and use some aircraft anti seize when you put it back together. The flair nut is the last thing you should tighten after aligning everything on the car at installation. Again, there is no substitute for the right tool. Below are two references for getting the tool that appeared on the list earlier: We don't have an extra, but we do have one of those wrenches. It's a Martin, size 1 + 13/16", part #1258 and you should be able to order one through your local parts store. I got mine at AET in Merrifield, VA. The ph.#'s (703) 573-1050. It's as thin as the original VW made, but the handle is only about a third as long. It works beautifully. Hope this helps you out! -T ;) I got mine from Zelenda Metrics: 800-221-0126. Ask for Jim (no relation) VW-180, not too expensive. Melissa & Jim wrote: > On 11 Dec 97, GRAVCASEY wrote: > > > I am replacing the muffler on my '65 Notch and would really > appreciate some > > advice on how to loosen those large nuts that attach the fresh air > heaters > > (heat exchangers) to the muffler. > > This is not a job for those afraid to get dirt under their > fingernails, nor for those not well-tooled. Remove the old muffler > and the rear heater boxes. Use a torch on the head studs to warm > them up to a dull red and you won't break the studs. Use a cutting > torch to cut the muffler from the small boxes; cut as close to the > boxes as possible (flush with the nuts.) > > Put the boxes in a LARGE vise which is attached to the proverbial > immovable object and heat the nut round and round, inside and out > with a large torch tip; this takes a lot of heat and will require > acetylene and oxygen, propane and oxygen, or MAPP and oxygen. Don't > even bother trying to do this with a simple propane torch. When the > nut can be seen to have just a bit of a dull red glow (with the torch > removed) put down the torch and pick up your 1-7/16" combination > wrench (I may have the size wrong here) and slip the box end over the > nut and PULL! If it won't move, heat it a bit hotter and try again. > > > Also, does anyone know where I can find replacement rubber > sleeves/hoses that > > connect the fan housing and fresh air heaters (heat exchangers?) > > Try WCM or your dealer. > > Jim > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > Melissa Kepner Jim Adney > Laura Kepner-Adney > jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------