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Hi Jim, Thanks for replying. > In normal operation the pump runs all the time, but it's controlled by the FI > brain, which shuts it off if the engine isn't turning over. So what you've > observed is normal. Good, I figured as much, but good to hear confirmation. > > So, any hints on what I did to kill the pump? > > Well, in the first place, I'm not a fan of tank sealants. I suspect that you'll > soon be looking for an unsealed tank because the sealant has sealed up some > internal passages which are going to be important to you. But none of this > would keep your pump from spinning. > > OTOH, if those passages are sealed, as I suspect, you'll now need a lot more > than 2 gallons of gas before any will be able to reach the pump. Well, I did this test to see if the POR15 tan k sealant would or would not work. Mainly because I had the sealant and extra tanks, so I might as well test it and have something to contribute to the knowledgebase. If it works great, if not, so be it. However, after treating the tank I did some bench testing of the flow in the tank - the same testing I did before and now that the rust was gone, the flow was much improved from before! I poured liquid into the tank and watched as the center bowl filed quite quickly and the supply tube and return tube are visibly clear, So I really don't think it will be as big of a problem as you have suspected. > It's possible that while you were doing all this other work, the pump just > dried out and now can't get itself started. Now this is a possible scenario. It has been about 2 months since it's been disconnected. > > Any suggestions on what might be done to save the pump? > Jumper the relay, then go under the car and gently tap the pump motor body with > a small hammer. Tap in various directions until you manage to shake it just > right and release whatever got caught in there. Once it starts to run, try to > run the car. I'll give it a try. > > > Do I need to prime it somehow? (and if so, how?) > > You'll have to get gas into the central cup in order for gas to be able to get > to the pump. The pump WILL spin when dry, but you don't want to do this for > long, as that is hard on it. actually I was wondering if I needed to fill the pump with gas similar to bench bleeding a master brake cylinder, but we'll see if the knocking with a hammer will get it to spin. > > So, where is the fuel pump > > relay? > > The fuel pump relay is under the dash, against the firewall, up and left from > the steering column. It is the same part as the main FI power relay. To jumper > it, just use a clip lead to short between the two red wires. If you get a small > spark that means that the pump shows continuity. If there's no spark then it's > likely that the pump brushes aren't making good contact with the commutator. > Either way, a little shock on the pump body will usually eventually correct > this. And I should probably disconnect wire 19 from the control module to protect it, right? > > Don't overdo the hammer trick. The pump motor has 2 brittle ceramic magnets > just inside the shell. If you break one of them, you'll be buying a new pump. Will do. Thanks for the warning! Big Al Houston ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~