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In a message dated 5/23/06 8:40:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
topnotch@nycap.rr.com writes:
<< Sorry to hear about your trouble, at least it wasn't the T4 that you had
some money into! Raby says he solved the cam problem but is running solid
lifters.
Sounds like you had a piston burn though, excessive pressure in the case
pumps the oil out the back of the engine where there is no seal, I've had
this happen but caught it right away and was still able to drive several
hours on 3 cylinders with the bad cyl injector unplugged. >>
Nope, it was number 4 rod bearing, and number 2 main bearing. I think number
2 main got over heated from being so close to the number 4 rod that it kinda
melted the lead, as it was a steel backed bearing. The crank has some light
ridges on it that might be polished out, but number 4 rod bearing was wasted,
and the rod cooked. It was so cooked that I still haven't been able to get the
shell off the rod itself. I did get the remains of the shell off the cap
though. It think if I were to reuse this crank, I'd have to have the journal for
number 4 turned down, and maybe the number 2 main (if it couldn't be polished
smooth), as the rest of the journals looked good. The rest of the engine looked
good and clean, no broken parts floating inside, although the strainer and sump
plate had the fine grit of number 4 rod bearing attached to them. The pistons
still looked clean, with no carbon build up, and the heads looked good too
(exhaust valve heads were light tan, while intakes were slightly black), with
only number 1 exhaust valve being out of adjustment (it was .008, while all of
the rest were .006), and no studs had pulled out anywhere.
The engine was very grimey, with oil going into the pre-heaters, and across
the top of the 3-4 side of the engine (had a complete stock exhaust system).
Oil seemed to circulate more to that side than the right. So much for the
thought that the left side gets short changed of air flow from the fan. The foam pad
on the oil cooler was literally dripping with oil. The underside of the
cooling tins had a light coat of oil, but nothing like the pre-heater elbows, or
the fan belt shroud had.
I could probably put a crank kit into it and put everything back together
(along with spending part of a day cleaning parts), and I might do that. I'm
trying to find out if Raby's 9010 cam is the same as a Web 73 (I haven't heard
back from him yet), as that is what I want to put into the t-4 so it can run the
D-jet FI. With D-jet, you have to be careful about cam selection, otherwise
you run into tuning issues. The Web 73 is a mild stock replacement cam for a
411 / 412 with solid lifters.
Well I thought I'd let everone know the results of my engine failure, still
haven't figured out why it failed though (still leaning toward an incorrectly
resized rod). It's kinda strange, of the 3 VW engine failures I've had over the
last 15 years, number 4 seems to be the problem (everyone says it supposed to
be number 3 being the weak link), with the valve head coming off 2 bug
engines, and now a rod bearing.
Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
71 Square, now a 2 seat Roadster, pics can be seen at;
http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2977 and now has a dead T-3 with D-jet FI
engine. : (
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