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Dave Hall wrote: > That's a drawing from Geoff Tunks, one of our club members. I agree > with you, > >don't put the sealer in, but maybe keep an eye out for a tank that's got no >rust. Must be quite a few of them over there in the dry states. > > > Don't get me wrong- my tank looks as good as a brand new tank on the inside. I gave it a good once-over with a flashlight and an inspection mirror, and there is not a speck of rust in there. There were tiny little rust dots inside, but the metal ready seems to have dissolved them. No corrosion whatsoever. >When all's said and done, even rusty tanks can be repaired, but quite a few on >the list have had trouble with fuel starvation as the tank got lower due to the >channel getting clogged. In Geoff Tunks' case, the return nozzle was almost >touching the opening and wasn't doing its job in helping to force the fuel from >the outer part of the tank to get back into the inner cup. > When I was siphoning fuel out from where the sender hole is, I could clearly see a gush of fuel coming out the hole in the bottom of the tank into the bowl. So, that opening is clearly fine. Frankly, I couldn't do better with an NOS tank. Interesting story behind the tank in this car- sometime in the 90's, the old guy who owned the car brought it to the dealership complaining of a gasoline smell coming from the front of the car. The dealership (yes, he was still getting it serviced there) sourced a tank from a salvage yard as the old tank had rusted through and replaced all the hoses in the front. My guess is the salvage yard tank may have been sitting around for a long time and not been on a car too long, as it looks good as new. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~