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Re: [T3] Fuel line replacement complete


On 17 Feb 2006 at 0:09, Constantino Tobio wrote:

> -I used an entire 25' spool of Goodyear 5/16" Fuel Line, with 1' to
> spare. This included a 2' length used for the pressure sensor, and I
> probably had about another 1-1.5' of random little scraps.

Sounds about right, assuming that you were a bit generous with line lengths in 
a few places. There are places where a bit more line is an improvement, but 
there are also places where extra line can get you in trouble: You don't want 
extra line to sag down and drag on the CV joints or to rub on the RF tie rod.

> -All the clamps are the FI type, not the worm-type. I happen to like
> these better- they don't cut into the hose when tightened.

I hate to see overtightened hose clamps which have cut into the hose jacket. 
What most people don't seem to understand is that 5/16" hose will actually seal 
with NO clamps, so you only need to tighten clamps just enough to keep the hose 
ends from working loose.

> -I replaced the grommet in the engine tin bulkhead where the hose enters
> the engine compartment. The existing grommet didn't seem right- turns
> out it was a smaller grommet that was split open to make it work, so one
> side of the hose was just sitting on the hole in the steel. This is bad-
> a cut here would spray fuel on the #3 cylinder. The new grommet worked
> pefectly. Best size to get at Lowes is one with a 5/8 hole. This one is
> also good for the front where the noise damper goes through the
> mini-bulkhead there.

Those grommets have always been a problem. I'll have to see if I can find some 
of them here, because the OE ones are a real struggle to get the Goodyear hose 
thru.

> -The return side of the fuel loop and the CSV line pass awfully close to
> the EGR valve. This gives me pause. I may wire tie these as far away as
> possible from contacting the EGR. Is there a better routing?

I run the CSV hose over the top and then down BETWEEN the 2 FI air runners. 
It's a bit of a squeeze, but it works well, with no sharp bends and avoids 
conflicts with everything.

Cars with EGR got a different pressure regulator and different "Tee" at the 
right injectors. Those special parts have nipples that bend upwards (or 
something...?) to loop around the EGR valve. I'd have to take a look at my '73 
to be sure, but I know they are supposed to be different. Does this sound like 
what you have?

> On the agenda for this weekend: checking the system for leaks and
> adjusting the valves.

Sounds like you're getting close.   ;-)

-- 
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA

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