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Problem replacing the whole beam is that unless you pull the arms out and check them you could have worn out junk or bent arms. A LOT of the beams Ive found have bad lower arms and some bad uppers. Ive always had a heck of a time getting the beam up in place and squished back into the rubber bushings, not to mention the upper clamp bolts loose. The problem with the knuckles is getting the ball joint bolts loose, the often rust in place, the procedure is in my Front end FAQ if your interested. If it's a southern or western car you will probably get them loose, if it's a salt rat youll need the hot wrench. Keith Yes, there were no 5 lug rotors. If you find a disk donor car, you can steal the rear hubs and drums from it, too, and just transfer them over to your rears. I THINK they are a drop-in replacement. Replacing the whole axle beam is actually a lot easier than just replacing the steering knuckles outward, simply because then you don't have to worry about preloading the torsion bars. Whatever you buy, don't use anything from earlier than mid-'68, because after that the axle stubs got larger and stronger. They take different inner wheel bearings, though. Note also that squares came with a slightly heavier sway bar than the other body styles. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~