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Re: [T3] 'Nutha Nubee

In a message dated 8/10/06 6:28:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, comwest@att.net 

<< DouglasG=> Should I be concerned about the oil leaks?
 Some 'controlled seepage' is not unusual, but it's never negligible. 
 Stopping leakage is always good. That said, case leaks are often really 
 hard to fix without pulling the case apart. Find out where you're 
 leaking from, and we'll be able to say more.
 => gasket kit every 30K miles for vw's... myth?
 Most of what you hear about VWs is myth. Any categorical 
 characterization, certainly.
 => Perhaps I should just have it rebuilt?
 That's the only way to be secure about the motor, but it's an expensive 
 fix if it's not needed. I'd suggest driving it for a while to get a feel 
 for it first.
 => The parts car has F.I. with some issues.
 Issues with FI are frequently misdiagnosed. The FI gods here will want 
 => we need something 'mechanic-friendly'.
 If you can find a wrench who knows enough about carbs to do right for 
 you, you can find one who can handle the FI too. The sad fact is that 
 both these arts are being lost. Consider this as well: it's more 
 mechanic-friendly if the mechanic can use the manual. Modifications 
 erode that.
 => Are the Webers a good match for the 1600cc?
 34s, I'll guess -- some people like 'em. Stock carbs are much easier to 
 deal with. Getting even small amounts of additional power out of the 
 motor requires much more than bolting on some fuelier carbs.
 No matter what your level of expertise, every application of non-stock 
 parts is an experiment, requiring some fussing around and carrying the 
 risk of unhappy or unexpected effects, which usually show up when you're 
 already late for something important. If the driver is not necessarily 
 down for that, I'd recommend coloring inside the lines as much as 
 possible on this ride. You get more dependability that way, and problems 
 are much easier to diagnose.
 If upgrades seem desirable, stop and ask why. Has your son driven a 
 well-tuned and maintained Type 3 before? Hint: It's not like a bug at all.
 => is most of the running gear from the 1970 swappable with the 1969?
 Most. If the '69 was an FI car, even more.
 Steven Ayres, Prescott AZ
 '66 KG1600 >>

I totally agree with Steven on ALL accounts. You might want to ask Jim A. for 
a FI FAQ, as that'll help you figure out what might be wrong with the FI. 
Really all that's needed for trouble shooting it are a Bentley manual, a multi 
meter, and this list. ; ) Jim and Russ recommend checking everything with the 
meter first, so as you're not spending any money unnecessarily. A lot of the 
time though, FI gets the blame, when it's usually something else (timing, valve 
adjustment, something else). The FI is pretty bulletproof, and it's also a very 
simple system. The carbs will be a learning experience too, so it might pay 
to stay with the FI, and be able to trouble shoot it yourself, or even your 
mechanic will be able to do so using the manual.

Most of the 70 parts can be used on the 69 too. In particular any or all of 
the drive train parts will directly swap, but so will the front seats the doors 
and windshield, along with the wiper motor, and dash pad. I hope this helps.

Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
       71 Square, now a 2 seat Roadster, pics can be seen at; 
http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2977 and now running the old Notch motor with 
D-jet FI . : ) 

List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org

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