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Peter Parker '66 Square; Phillip Portland, OR
Dave Hall wrote:
It should be mendable since the coil has electrical conductivity through it. In the ones I've seen, the flat plate of metal is pulled towards the electromagnet, and the movement opens the contacts again. Check the contacts are clean. Then it's a matter of getting the separation right between the metal plate and the electromagnet so the circuit is closed normally and opens as the plate moves towards the e/m. I found a thin card gasket was needed between the sounding plate and base - there should be thin gaskets on the flange. Sometimes pushing the cover in a bit will make it work as it moves the diaphragm and metal plate in a bit. The adjustment screws are often resined in, and I've not tried cleaning out the stuff, but it might be possible to get adjustment that way.
Assuming you didn't find bits of broken mechanism and the coil is not burnt out, it should be repairable.
UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
----- Original Message ----- From: "Virginia & Peter" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 8:32 AM
Subject: [T3] horn internals
I'm surprised this hasn't happened sooner, but after hanging under the bumper for 40 years, the horn finaly died. It had power and with a good ground still no-go. When tested with MM had a very high resistance circuit across terminals. I opened it up to find some moisture, and a small amount of corrosion/crud between the two metal strips. Now I've got a good circuit, drawing 3A at 6V, but no noise. Any ideas? This is such a simple circuit, but I really don't understand what creates the vibration/oscilation. The crud was on what I believe is the "hammer" tip. I'm sure I can get another horn, but now I'm curious how it works.
'66 Square; Phillip
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