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I hope I've done it right this time!
One possible change I might try is to go back to the 009 dizzy the engine builder fitted, so it eliminates the vac advance curve not suiting the low end speed range. If it jerks the same on that, then I guess the dizzy is not the problem. This may take a while to try as I'll have to borrow or buy a good advance timing light to easily set the max advance to 32 degrees. My light is only a simple strobe and can't show the max advance as there's no mark.
I'll report back when I've tried it. Meanwhile, if anyone has any other flashes of genius, please let me know.
Thanks for all the suggestions you all have made.
Rgds chris
On 27 Sep 2005 at 7:43, Chris Wright wrote:
Hi Jim,once again, many thanks, my responses are in caps after each question.Uhhh, the first one would be to avoid quoting a whole digest when you post a reply....
Good suggestions, but again all tried ecept the dizzy cap. Please keep them coming!!!!
Second would be to mention that the caps are not necessary, because your email software properly puts the > sign in front of the quoted material. You need to start each of your replies on a fresh line (hit carriage return), however, to make this work right.
>Jim's reply:That braid is usually soldered or welded at each end, but that's not the wire I was talking about. How about the wire to the points? Is there a wire there that you haven't changed?
>I'm not familiar with the early distributors, but if there's a wire in there >that flexes as the dist advances, you should consider the possiblity that the >wire itself is broken under the insulation. I've seen that happen, and you can >only tell it by pulling rather hard on the wire to see if the insulation >stretches and breaks.
THERE IS A BRAID WHICH IS SOLDERED ONTO THE NEW VAC UNIT WHICH IS SECURELY SCREWED TO THE ADVANCE PLATE.
Points wire is new, as are the points, insulator is carefully checked with a meter too.
>The Bosch caps seem to last forever. In general, I only see them damaged when >abused, never just from use. Is the carbon contact inside the top center still >there, protruding and spring loaded?>>>>You can imagine it best by imagining accelerating on a very bumpy road so >>>>that the car jerks over the bumps.
>>>To me this sounds more like ignition "miss" than anything else. I would be >>>looking at ignition problems.
>
IT IS LOOKING OK BUT I CAN'T VOUCH FOR THE LENGTH OR STRENGTH OF THE SPRING. IVE TRIED GIVING IT A SMALL STRETCH.
>>I'VE NOT USED IT IN THE RAIN LATELY AND IV'E DRIVEN TO WORK SEVERAL >>TIMES IN THE SUN, A 40 MILE EACH WAY TRIP.
Improving warm up of the engine really helped. The problem pretty much disappears now when I've done only a few miles, since I opened the air cleaner flap to winter setting to allow in hot engine air. The car is kept in a dry garage and recently I've not really had to drive it in the wet.
oing from the domes to flat tops would lower the CR. Going from 1500 to 1600 would raise it. If the heads were flycut to clean up the sealing surfaces that would raise it. It's not at all clear where your CR is now, unless your chamber volume and deck height were measured after the engine was rebuilt.>I wonder if another possibility is that what you're feeling is a slight >pinging. Have you tried higher octane gas? Upping the displacement from 1500 to >1600 would also up the compression ratio a bit, and this could be blindsiding >you.
NO PINGING UNDER ANY CONDITIONS. I TRIED 98OCTANE BUT NO DIFFERENCE. WOULDN'T GOING FROM 1500s PISTONS TO 1600 FLAT TOP LOWER THE COMPRESSION RATIO?
If 98 octane didn't help, then it's probably not a CR problem.
Heads were new and not machined at all, pistons are flat tops. It should be a stock 1600 SP spec.
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