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RE: [T3] Distributor Plug wires...


<x-flowed>Sparking around visible plug wiring at night indicates arcing to ground surfaces. Spraying WD40 on them temporarily "fixes" this problem by raising <temporarily> the resistances of the cable jacket by driving the absorbed water out of them. Replacement of the spark plug wires is the only permanent fix.

Shrink wrap shrinks upon heat application. Perfect for the engine room, because more heat only shrinks it more (to the point of a fire, anyway! )

As far as ohmeters go, put a battery in it and cross the probes while in ohm-meter mode. Ohms should be within 1 ohm of zero. So, when ohming out a wire, perfect connections are zero ohms. Not so pefect connections are 10 or less ohms. Open conections are in the mega-ohms area (millions of ohms). Easy to use! Less than about 20 ohms indicates an imperfect but defintely connected wire. An ohm or so is usually OK. For example, when I wire a rig with around 200 foot of 18 gage wire and short it together (which makes about 400 feet of connected wire) I get about 1 ohm maybe 2 ohms....any more indicates a poor connection or a rubbed or damaged conductor that needs replacement. Hope this helps!

Regards, Steve J.
71 FB
02 F250 Diesel


From: "J. Jonik" <j_jonik@yahoo.com>
Reply-To: type3@vwtype3.org
To: type3-d@vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Distributor Plug wires...
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 16:14:27 -0700 (PDT)

Thanks Jim. Good sounding advice. But...

* Shrink wrap. Is all shrink wrap okey doke for HOT
engine areas? Or are there different types of wrap?

* Relatedly, haven't shopped around yet but...there
MUST be Electric Tape that's also used in HOT areas.
Right? Regular electric tape almost melts as it
unravels and gets sticky.

* And...if one distrib plug wire is in wrong place,
no harm from switching back and forth to see which
position makes car preform better? I get sort of
hiccup going into First and Second...and have to be
Very Perfect on Clutch to avoid that, as it is now.
Is that a sign of Wrong Wire Placement?

* Will finally have to learn Ohmmeter. Thanks. I have
one...w/ no battery. No Instruction Manual either. On
Line maybe?

PS: Speaking of electronics in engine compartment,
once in a moonless desert out west, before I turned
on a flashlight to check for what's wrong, I had the
car running, engine compartment open...and lo and
behold...it was like the Aurora Borealis...really
cool lights flickering over and up and down my
Ignition Wires.
   One way to check for Time to Buy New Ones, eh?

 What else can be maybe seen by watching engine run
in the dark?



> On 26 Oct 2005 at 0:45, J. Jonik wrote:
>
> > Thanks. But...the ENDS of the three plug wires
> are now gone. Searched them for little numbers
but...no luck.
> > All three are now spliced using wire sections, w/
> the skinny connectors, from the Parts Room.
>
> Then  you'll have to go to the ECU end of the wires
> and use an Ohmmeter to figure out which is which.
>
> > * What performance effects if dist. plug wires
> are in wrong spot, or not really connected?
>
> Depending on how badly they're mixed up, it will
> either run poorly, or not run at all.
>
> > * How to test if they are going to right number
> in Control Unit or not?...there being no color code
> or little numbers on the wires.
>
> Trace using the Ohmmeter, then read the number off
> the ECU end of the wire, or count from the end of
the ECU connector.
>
> >   When cleaning up and tuning up the other day,
> THREE
> > wires just casually BROKE from their plugs. It
> took no
> > violence at all to break them.  On last legs.
> Two
> > from the Distributor Plug, and the one on
> Condensor.
> > Condensor easy to replace, of course.
> >  Question then is....will a PARTIALLY,
> > connected-by-a-thread wire WORK...or just
> partially
> > work?
>
> The single strand will probably work fine until
> you're driving home
> late one night in a cold rain. Fix it now, while
> you're home and can
> do it right. Strip the wire, solder, and cover with
> heat shrink.
>
> >  I think ALL wires ought get a good Tug Test to
> see if
> > they are really together on all wire strands
> doing
> > their job.
>
> That's reasonable, as long as you don't get carried
> away. A lot
> depends on how YOU define a "good" tug.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************





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