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On Sat, 2005-10-08 at 09:29, Dave Hall wrote: > Just been asked what problems might be encountered if a 73 twin carb auto engine > is swapped with a 71 twin carb manual. > > I came up with the following:- > > There's a sealing cap on the front (front is front) of the engine that is put in > with the hollow outwards on the auto and inwards on the manual. Apparently the > auto torque convertor can destroy the base of this plug if it is fitted with the > bottom outwards, producing a large oil leak. > > The gland nut is different - use the one from the auto. > > Front cover plate - use auto one. > > Carbs and balance pipes - use auto ones. > > Distributor - use auto one as the advance curve is different. Actually, the 71 > manual might have a dual vacuum distributor - mine has. > > Apparently he has already started using the manual distributor as the auto one > failed a couple of months ago - not sure if he has done anything about the dual > vac aspect though. > > Anything wrong, or missed out? > I think the camshaft plug is the most important. Unless it has been reversed already. I know I do on all the engines I build. Keeps the sealer off your fingers while putting it in. Also, the gland nut is important. And also, the automatic has a cut-out at the lower area of the case for access to the torque converter bolts. This can be implemented with a a drill/grinder and a burr. Just be careful of the fire hazard while doing this. Do it outside. -- Russ Wolfe '71 FB AT '66 FB MT '64 T34 (not running) '65 T1 (not running) '05 KIA Sorento SUV russw@classicvw.org http://www.classicvw.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~