[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]

RE: [T3] Electric/Mechanical Brake Switch

Actually, that is not how it works.  If it is rated for 240V/2A then it
would be 24V/20A or 12V/40A.... because 2A * 240V=480W s0 12V*40A also
is 480W.  Although there would be a hefty spark when it makes at 40A.
With only a light bulb for a load that would be a negligible

Stephen J. Jackson
Commissioning Engineer, Petron Industries, Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Hall [mailto:dave@hallvw.clara.co.uk] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 7:28 AM
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Electric/Mechanical Brake Switch

Yes, that would work - the pedal position is fixed by the need for the
and the fixed length of the push-rod, at least on dual circuit ones.
Just need
an arm long enough for the pedal lever to miss the switch.  Maybe it
would mount
on the back of the foot plate.
I've some micro-switches like that - I was going to use one to show that
camper roof was still up, just in case I tried driving off with it like
again.   I wondered what the flapping sound was - side fabric panels
telling me I'd forgotten something.  D'oh!   Probably need a relay to be
sure of
current capacity though on those as they were made for 240V 2A I think..

UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Montebello" <lapuwali@yahoo.com>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 4:39 AM
Subject: Re: [T3] Electric/Mechanical Brake Switch

> One way to handle the long pedal throw is to do what Porsche did on
> cars.  Put the normally closed switch on the driver's side of the
> so it's held "open" by the brake pedal arm when the brakes aren't
> pressed, and closes as the pedal moves, and the arm comes off the

List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org

[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]