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Actually, that is not how it works. If it is rated for 240V/2A then it would be 24V/20A or 12V/40A.... because 2A * 240V=480W s0 12V*40A also is 480W. Although there would be a hefty spark when it makes at 40A. With only a light bulb for a load that would be a negligible consideration! Stephen J. Jackson Commissioning Engineer, Petron Industries, Inc. SJackson@petronworld.com -----Original Message----- From: Dave Hall [mailto:dave@hallvw.clara.co.uk] Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 7:28 AM To: type3@vwtype3.org Subject: Re: [T3] Electric/Mechanical Brake Switch Yes, that would work - the pedal position is fixed by the need for the freeplay and the fixed length of the push-rod, at least on dual circuit ones. Just need an arm long enough for the pedal lever to miss the switch. Maybe it would mount on the back of the foot plate. I've some micro-switches like that - I was going to use one to show that the camper roof was still up, just in case I tried driving off with it like that again. I wondered what the flapping sound was - side fabric panels were telling me I'd forgotten something. D'oh! Probably need a relay to be sure of current capacity though on those as they were made for 240V 2A I think.. Dave. UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/ ------ ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Montebello" <lapuwali@yahoo.com> To: <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 4:39 AM Subject: Re: [T3] Electric/Mechanical Brake Switch > > One way to handle the long pedal throw is to do what Porsche did on many > cars. Put the normally closed switch on the driver's side of the pedal, > so it's held "open" by the brake pedal arm when the brakes aren't being > pressed, and closes as the pedal moves, and the arm comes off the switch. > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~