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>>... I've got a fuel pump which spins, but doesn't put out any flow or pressure. There actually IS flow out the overflow line, but not out the output line. And even when I pinch off the overflow line I don't get any output. This is driving me nuts, because the problem comes and goes, so sometimes I think it's "fixed" even though I don't know what I did to fix it. Now I've had the pump head apart and everything that I can see appears to be okay. I have NOT taken the little crimped cap apart, however, so I'm wondering if the rubber tip of the check valve has come loose from the plunger. I don't know if I've ever seen what this is supposed to look like inside, but I can see the end of the plunger by prying it back with a small screwdriver. What I see looks rather long, thin, and pointy, maybe 3mm dia and 6mm long. Is that just a central mounting spike for the real rubber seal? I'm trying to avoid removing the crimped cover on those springs and valves, because I'm not sure I can crimp it again successfully. If this starts to become a problem, I think I'd like to come up with a fix that just removes the check valve function from the pump body and substitutes a separate in-line check valve. Anyone know of a supplier of inexpensive 5/16" in-line check valves that would be compatable with gasoline? << Your check valve has died. I've had a couple of pumps do that. I don't know the measurements and tolerances, but I suspect that the gap around the piston has gotten too large so now there is too much leak-by for the plunger to be forced back. There's a bronze-looking sleeve in there, but I don't know if it could be successfully replaced. I was able to successfully revive one pump by removing the cap and cutting a coil off of the spring. That softened it up just enough to start working again. Had another that just wouldn't go so I cut a small plug that holds the plunger in the normal output position. The pump now pumps and relieves fine, but has no check valve function. The plug fits in the little alcove at the end of the flow channel. The cap is not hard at all to crimp back (just don't let the spring get away). I just used a screwdriver with a tip of appropriate width, and pressed it in with finger pressure. That cap is paper thin, but it has a nice rubber seal underneath so tightness isn't a problem. I've considered adding an inline check valve, but the primer switch trick accomplishes the same thing so I'm not sure it's worth the effort to hunt one down. Tony '70 Clementine Fasty (in progress) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~