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The brake line enters at the top, doesn't it? It has a union joined into the wheel cylinder A new rear cylinder is how a garage mends this. You will have contamination on the shoes. I usually replace them, but I hear this can be washed off if it's normal brake fluid, but if there is not much friction lining you are probably better off renewing them - both sides must be done though. Problems you may encounter are a seized union screw that turns the brake line too, and breaks the pipe off. In fairness, I can't recall an old VW doing this, but much younger ones seem more likely to cause this problem. Make sure you clean any corrosion and deposits off from the union screw, and a bit of freeing fluid would help. Make sure it's all cleaned off before reassembly as it could damage the new seals. The brakes need bleeding after too. You may only need to do that one wheel cylinder; you will have the rear lifted to do the work, so the air won't go forwards. Dave. UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/ ------ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Mungkornpanich" <ben@givingclothes.com> To: <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2005 5:30 PM Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Fluid Leak > I finally had a chance to look at my car. My leak appears to be at my left > (driver side) rear wheel. The wheel had signs of dried fluid on it and the > back area of the brake had nice moist gunk instead of the normal dry gunk. > It looks like it might be coming from where the brake line enters the back > of the brake (just up and right of the star holes). Am I looking at needing > a new rear wheel cylinder? If so, any gotcha's I need to know about? > > Thanks!!! > > Ben - '69 Squareback ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~