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Re: [T3] Brake bleeding and other hydraulics


Jim Adney wrote:

> Watch for unexpected gas leaks when you start. If they are just thru
> the sides
>
>of the injectors, they may heal up after a few days. Just run the pump to fill 
>the fuel loop once a day for a week and see if the problem goes away. Leaks at 
>the ends of hoses will require hose replacement, and you'll want to just 
>replace all of them if you have to deal with any of them.
>
>  
>
Looking through the invoices this guy had from his dealership, it looks
like he often came in for "customer smells gasoline, replaced x hoses"
during the '90s. Guess those 20 year old hoses finally started rotting.
He was lucky he didn't have a fire.

My plan is to replace all those hoses, I'd just hope it holds on another
100 miles until it gets to my new house. I'd rather not do it in my
parents driveway. Then again, I'd rather not have a flaming ruin, either. :)

>Vac adv hoses, even if disconnected, won't cause a noticable vacuum leak. EGR 
>leaks are exhaust leaks, not vacuum leaks. The only problem that EGR leaks 
>cause is that the escaping exhaust can cook and destroy any nearby wiring.
>
>  
>
The EGR pipe broke at the flange, and the pipe's been kinda sitting on
it. I'm thinking the EGR might be non-functional, as I see no signs of
exhaust gas having leaked out of the broken flange.

What's making me think possible vacuum leak (aside from the obvious
broken vacuum advance hoses) is the fact that I seem to need a little
extra fuel to get the car started up. If I crank for a second, stop,
crank for a second, stop, I can usually get it turning over by the 4th
or 5th try, especially if I help out by pumping the gas pedal a little
while it's doing it's best to start. I was thinking my start was a
little lean, and getting a little extra raw fuel in there does the
trick. This is on a warm 70+ day, so the cold start injector shouldn't
be coming into play.

I haven't really done a lot of troubleshooting, and the vacuum hoses is
all obvious stuff I need to do anyway. My next guess would be the head
temp sensor, which is easy enough for me to check also.

The car runs great once warm. The idle is steady, the engine pulls
great, and gets 20+ mpg.

>Because of the likelyhood of gas leaks when you try to start it, it's best to 
>NOT do this inside. Roll the car out of whatever building it's in before you 
>try this.
>
>  
>
Definetely doing this outside, along with any gasoline work.

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