[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]

Re: [T3] Charging Help.


On 25 Feb 2005 at 10:28, fess wrote:

> I got a regulator. It was bosch, but for the D+ connector it had a screw
> post, like my 71 square, and other type 1's I've had.  And not a large spade
> connector, as my '67 has. So I suspect it's not the "right" one.  Wanting to
> get something done in my time allotted though, I made spade connector to
> screw to the post, as I recall the list saying that they had done that, and
> been fine.  But if the correct one is available I'll probably need to return
> this one. 

The early space connector version is NLA. If you have a Bosch 30-019 then you 
have the best one available.

> No change in my generator light.

Damn! Yeah, that sucks!

> measuring at the battery, I had 12.4v at idle, and medium rpm. [ the 
> battery was just charged on a charger. ] measuring voltage at D+ on the 
> generator, I get 2v at idle, and around 10v/11v at medium rpm.

That sounds low.

> On the generator, Disconnecting DF and grounding it, measuring at D+, I 
> was getting the same thing. 2v - 10v.
> [ I did have D+ disconnected at this point. Is that wrong? should it be 
> connected during this test?  ]

You can run this test either way. With D+ connected the battery will hold the 
generator output down. Otherwise it can go above 20V at high RPM.

> I decided to inspect the brushes more carefully, they look pretty much 
> new. sticking up about a 1/4".

That sounds fine, if you mean 1/4" above the brush guides.

> I undid the strap on the generator, and rotated it, to get a good view of
> the bottom brush. So, then i noticed through the cooling hole, that there's a
> large red wire inside the generator that looks slightly melted. 

That's actually just one of the thru bolts that holds the generator together. 
The red sleeving on these only started after these cars were made, so this must 
be a rebuilt generator. Your '67 would have come with spade connectors on the 
generator, too, just like your VR. Make sure that the connectors on the harness 
are good.

Look also inside the connection terminals to make sure that there isn't just a 
broken wire there, or a wire that has shifted and grounded itself to something.

That sleeving shouldn't be melted however. That is still a sign that things 
have gotten too hot in there. It's possible that the cooling hole was not in 
the right place at some time.

> So. I believe the generator is bad.

Your full fielded open circuit voltage is low, so you're probably correct 

> Is it best to get a new one, or is there something further I should 
> check?

Make sure that your voltage readings hold true even when you push in lightly on 
the 2 brushes. The voltage is low, so you won't feel anything.

I'd look inside to see if you can see anything that is noticably darker 
(burned) than anything else. If you take it out, you can try running it as a  
motor. To do this, just use your charger, putting the neg clip on the DF AND 
ground and the pos clip to the D+. It should turn at medium speed when you do 
this, and if you hold it in your hand, it should turn smoothly, without any 
jerkyness. Any jerkyness would indicate a bad place on the armature, which is 
probably not fixable.

Check your yellow pages for an automotive electric repair shop. They should be 
able to check it out and repair whatever is necessary. I can do it, too, but, 
for something this heavy, you're better off if you can find a good place 
locally.

-- 
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]