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Re: [T3] engine rebuild question

On 2 Feb 2005 at 6:47, David Sanderson wrote:

> I removed all the head bolts and the oil pressure valve. I note that I have
> two different styles. The springs are the same length but the thingy at the
> end (don't know what it is called) is shorter in one engine than the other.
> The difference is small, 5 mm (3/16) but I would imagine that this has an
> impact on oil pressure. Does anyone know what the difference would be? I
> uploaded a picture to TheSamba 

> (<http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=106597 >). 

These are the pressure relief pistons. The plain one is the early one and the 
grooved one is later. I'd use the grooved one.

> Also, do you recommend removing the case bolts to make sure that there is no
> old seal material? 

Do you mean the short 8mm studs? If so, no. Just leave them in place. I would 
remove the head studs only, and then send the case to RIMCO for case savers and 
align bore, if needed.

> Finally (at least for now), do I use locktight on the head studs when I put
> them back? 

I don't think it helps. The upper ones probably get too hot for Loctite anyway.

Most torqued fasteners are spec'd with oiled threads anyway, so I usually put a 
drop of oil on mine unless they already look wet.

I actually torque up the head studs in stages, over a period of about 3 days 
while I'm taking care of other details, like the rocker arms and pushrods. 
Alternate right and left sides and bring up the torque in stages. 

There's probably no real point in this, but I usually have so much to do at 
this stage that it doesn't slow down the process. I feel comfortable with this 
because it may allow some time for parts to deform and relax a bit, so that I 
can get a more consistent end result.

Jim Adney
Madison, WI 53711-3054

List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org

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