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Re: [T3] leaky transmission. [ strange one.. ]


On 31 Aug 2004 at 21:01, Russ Wolfe wrote:

> On Tue, 2004-08-31 at 20:41, Jim Adney wrote:

> > On 31 Aug 2004 at 11:44, fess wrote:
> > 
> > > In section 1
> > > 
> > > page 22 figure 6-2 shows the axle tube retainer. [ shows the nuts being
> > > removed from it. ] as I said the flange on the edges of mine, actually
> > > comes out as shown in the picture, but then folds back flat about 1/2"
> > > out. 
> > 
> > If you look at fig. 6-8 on page 24, I think you can see that the retainer is 
> > made up of two parts riveted together.
> 
> It is spot welded together.
> BTDT.

Okay, thanks for clearing that up. If it's leaking there does it mean that the 
metal broke at the edge of one of the spot welds?

> > > page 23 figure 6-7 shows an "original style" axle boot being installed
> > > into the retainer.  In that photo you can see two of the rivet / weld
> > > like things that are the things that seem to be leaking.  even looking
> > > at one apart in the mechanics garage I couldn't quite tell what those
> > > rivet / weld like things were about. 
> > 
> > That photo also seems to show a retainer with the extra 90 deg bend that you 
> > mentioned.

> that is a re-enforcing plate to stop the whole ring from being distorted
> by overtightening. Kinda like the bolts on the AT pan.

Right, a stiffener.

> > I'm guessing here, but reading the text it becomes clear that gaskets need to 
> > be added under the bolts for the retainer in order to get the right amount of 
> > play in the  axle tube. I wonder if this play was set up wrong, or just not set 
> > up at all, forcing some parts here to be deformed in use, and starting to leak.
> > 
> It could be a case of the plastic packing being installed poorly. There
> should be multiple gaskets under that ring to set the axle tube endplay.

> > I suspect you will have to replace that part to fix this leak.
> 
> I might just be a case of replacing the gaskets. BUT, make sure you have
> the right amount, and the right mix to get the endplay right. 

If the leak is really around the spot weld, then you would still need to 
replace the retainer, wouldn't you? Or could you just rotate it as his mechanic 
suggested, and put the leaky spot weld at the top.

If the whole thing got stressed enough to tear a spot weld, then I'd be 
concerned that other spot welds would also be broken, and rotating might just 
reveal a new leaky one.

I can imagine that stress like this could be caused by installing too few 
gaskets, or by not having the plastic ring positioned right while tightening 
down. Would there be anything in the way of normal operation that might cause 
this? Did it just happen occasionally to cars that were just being driven 
normally?

> Also, you can get the axle tube out without pulling the engine and
> trans. You have to support the trans, and remove the bolts from the
> cross member. Now jack the trans up a couple inches and the axle tube
> ring will clear the frame horn.

Okay, that helps a little, but you'll still have to remove everthing at the 
outer end of the axle, including the brakes and bearing, and disconnect it all 
from the spring plates, right?

-- 
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA

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