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Re: [T3] Fitting a Type 1 case into Type 3

I originally wrote:
>> Yes, that's what I did on my Notch. I also carried it a little further by 
>> cutting the lower tube and turning it so it would follow the t-3 location.

Then Jim wrote:
>Why? Do you just need a type 3 breather box? I have some if you do.

I went this route so I could add oil to the engine, without having to have 
the case machined. This engine is still a factory VW assembled engine, that had 
never been opened up for any internal work. It is a 73 type 1 dual relief case 
with 8 mm head studs. My push rod tubes are a little rusty, causing my leak 
while I drove to the Invasion this past summer. John J. had to come over and 
look while I was adding a little oil to the engine at that one stop we made in 
PA (the last fuel stop before Hershey). He even did a double take, because I 
had to lift the rear floor up. : ) I only added about 4 ozs at the time, and 
since the engine only holds a little over 2.5 quarts, any leak could be 
detrimental if not checked. : o

>Now that I think of it, the biggest problem with using a type 1 breather in 
>type 3 engine is that the type 3 breather box provides MAJOR support for the 
>fan housing (3 out of 5 bolts, including the one big one) so I'd worry about 
>the fan housing coming loose without it. That's seems to be enough of a 
>even with the correct breather stand.

I'm using the correct type 3 stand, just the breather box had been changed. I 
used a 1" internal pipe wrench to remove the nut threaded inside the stand to 
swap them. I rerouted the road draft tube on mine, so it would closely match 
the type 3 part, and give me a little more room for access to my dip stick. I 
have several t-3 breather boxes here, but most of them are the 2 hole type, 
since I gave my dad one of the earlier styles for one of his cars. I may still 
have a 1 plug type still here, but it'll be a while before I'll need it.

Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof
       71 Square, now a 2 seat Roadster, pics can be seen at; 

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