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Re: [T3] Wheel bolts and aftermarket wheels

> > Also on eBay is this:
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> These bolts have conical collars, not spherical. They are not correct for our 
> wheels.

I think I will have to take my wheel off and have a look at it, since it is not a stock 
rim perhaps it would prefer the conical rather than spherical seat.. I think my fingers 
will be able to perceive a flat or concave surface there.

> I'm not sure how long they can be, but you are certainly correct in worrying 
> about their getting too long. 

Presuming these pass the seat test, would installing them and then spinning the wheel in 
the air be a reliable clearance test, or does the internal geometery shift when these are 
under load? I guess I could just remove the entire drum assembly and have a look for 
overhang with wheel installed, is there published data of internal clearances of these 
parts? I like my brakes functional.

> There IS a reason NOT to switch to studs! One of the best ways to break frozen 
> rear drums loose from the hubs depends on there not being studs in place there.
> On early cars where the drum and hub are one piece this doesn't apply.

That's reason enough for me, as I have had the e-brake freeze overnight, and it took 
running into the car [a few times] with my 60's Chevrolet to free it. This was of course, 
before I learned of the BFH method. Plus I like the concept of trying to keep the systems 
as close to original design as possible.

Thanks again, Curtis

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