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Re: [T3] Torsion bar setting


--- BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com wrote:

> As for getting the spring plate bolts back on, I use
> a floor jack (if you 
> have the body on), and longer bolts to get the
> plates in alignment. If you don't 
> have the body in place, then you might have to get
> creative. I hope this helps.


I've used a strut spring compressor.  Both for T1
(swing axel) body on, and off.  The length of the
spring compressor bolt is just right.  And the
compressor's hooks grab nice and solid.  I use it for
both installing and removing the torsion arms. Or to
put it another way, to load or unload the tension on
the torsion bars. 
    
IIRC the unloaded arms measured in at around
22◦.  But keep in mind that the chassis will
need to be level both front/back, and side/side. 
Otherwise the measurements from the angel finders will
not match each other from side to side.  

For installing the cover, I didn't have longer bolts.
So in the top holes I used two of the stock bolts. And
on the bottom I used two large "C" clamps to
gradually/evenly clamp it tight enough to install the
lower bolts.


FYI reindexing the torsion arm (UP) one outer spline,
gives you about a 2 1/2" drop in ride height.  And
before you start reindexing anything make sure you
place reference marks on the arm, and the bar, or the
bar and the housing.  This way if you don't like the
reindexing, you can always return it to stock, and
leave it, or start reindexing all over again.  

Cheers,



=====
John La Francois 
Blauvelt, NY 
'65 Notch S (Nubb) Awaiting rustoration 
'67 Beetle (Bubb) Currently under rustoration, by owner 
'98 Jetta GL (Wolfgang) Wife's Daily Driver 
Director: Lower Hudson VW Association 
http://www.geocities.com/lhva88



		
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