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On 16 Nov 2004 at 12:43, Jason W wrote: > If i go on another road trip, ill probably borrow a stock 5 lug wheel > from someone, the problem is my car is really 4 lug, converted to 5, > and the back is 5 lug (with studs that wont work with stock wheels), > and 4 lug in the front with adapters that have studs that cant be > pulled out, on adapters that really dont come off. If i could find > some lug nuts that would work with studs and stock wheels, id be > alright, so thats what im going to look for I think. Having different setups front and rear makes for a very impractical setup. Looks like you would need to carry 2 spares. Nuts that work with studs and stock wheels should not be a problem to find. > >Given the carbs that you have, this seems like a good choice, as long as the > >vacuum advance is actually not frozen. > > I suck on it and it moves inside, i dont know if it 'leaks' or not > but it moves so thats good. I havent run it or even cleaned it yet to > find out. Im starting with this dizzy but going to give at least the > 69 one a try as well most likely. If the vacuum canister 'leaked' or > bled down during running, would that affect how that carb runs (having > less vacuum than the other one due to this leak? Any leak that's not obvious will not leak enough to cause you problems. As long as things move smoothly you should be fine. > > the only way i can get it running acceptable with the 009 I have on it (and > > the one on before) was around 35 btdc, other than that it just stutters on > > the highway. > The only way this could happen, would be if the mech advance was frozen, which > is a common problem, or if the pulley was rotated from it's proper position, > which is not a common problem. Do you know how to check for a frozen mech adv? > > The mechanical advance definately works as I can see it with the > timing light, but is there another way to check it? From my research > i know 30-32 deg is ideal (009) and more can damage the motor long > term. My friend (fairly vw knowledgeable) goes with the 'i run it > where it runs best method, which in this case came up to be 35 or so, > the local vw guy here in town agreed thats best if it runs there and > he wouldnt worry too much about cooking the engine. It did run fine > the whole trip. My frist 009 seemed to do the same thing and also ran > bad at 30. The timing light is a good test, but you can also just grab the rotor and twist it CW. It should turn smoothly and then snap back smartly when you let it go. If it's sticky it may need rebuilding to get it smooth again. If you're setting it at 35 BTDC at high rpm then that's probably not too bad, just a little high. I got the impression that you were setting it at 35 BTDC at idle, which would have been WAY advanced (unless the advance was stuck) once you got up to speed. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~