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Re: [T3] Purest Type 3 group? (lowering)

After jacking up the front of your car, placing it on jackstands and
removing the front wheels/tires here is what you do. Now remove the front
shock absorber. Next you will need to remove the lower ball joint from the
spindle and position the the spindle/brakes and upper arm out of your way as
much as possible. Then there is a large locking nut on an allen setting
screw on the front part of the lower arm near the beam. You need to break
this nut loose and back out the allen set screw. Make sure you mark the
original position of the arm on the torsion bar so in case you have troubles
you can return it to the stock setting and try again. With the set screw
screwed out you should now be able to slide the arm on the torsion bar. It
takes some wiggling as it is a tight fit on the torsion bar. I never fully
removed it, just slid it out enough to rotate to the next spline (or 3
:-P ). Once you have the arm loose and moving on the torsion bar, you will
need to bend the safety tab to clear the arm for partial removal. This
safety tab is spot welded to the early cars and you need to be careful not
to mangle it unless you never plan on restoring and showing the
undercarriage of your car. It will bend just enough to clear and bend back
w/o hurting anything (rusy cars I would be leary and it depends on how rusty
this area is on your car). Later cars is a simple loosen the bolt turn the
safety tab out of your way affair. Once you get past the safety tab, simply
wiggle slide it slowly out while keeping hand pressure on it towards up or
down. With this pressure you will be able to feel it clear the splines and
rotate it up one spline. They feel like notches and that was why I always
called them that. After you adjust it up one spline (or however many you are
lowering it) simply slide the arm back on and reverse the steps to put it
back together.

Congratulations, you know have a "lowered" T3. Just don't forget to have an
alignment done ASAP.

If the alignment shop can't figure out how to adjust the camber, tell them
the ball joints have the adjustment for it. You simply loosen the clamping
bolt and turn the ball joint shaft while still in place in the spindle.
Caster is not adjustable and you will have to live with what you get, do
MAJOR modifications or return to stock.

My suggestion is to try it, you won't be disappointed. I think Keith is over
analizing things and has limited personal experience with lowered cars.
Sounds like he does more reading than experimenting to me.

If you don't like it, it's easily returned to stock as well.

Also it's been a decade since I have actually done this, so if I missed some
small detail, could someone from the darkside please chime in.

And DON'T forget to find a suitable replacement bump stop! Look at wrecking
yards or at aftermarket poly ones for something you can use.

-Patrick D.

----- Original Message -----
> I wished i could be there, maybe next year..
> Keith do you plan on taking pictures of the lowering
> process? I would love to find out more of how to
> properly lower the front end 1 notch, spline, degree
> whatever just to level out the stance.
> Camera's everyone, camera's...
> peace,
> Rob

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