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Re: [T3] CRACK


That is just from the cooling tin rubbing there.  Now, you may have a leak
Take a propane torch and heat up the metal where you suspect the crack.  It
won't take much heat at all, maybe 5-10 seconds, but if there's a crack there
along the oil galley then you will see oil seep out.  BTDT.

I've been somewhat successful with JB Weld on a crack along the same location
as yours, but mine also traveled down the case.  The epoxy did help to slow
much of the oil leaking from my case but ultimately I had to get a new unit.
The welding shop I took it to said they couldn't weld it because of the oil
galley behind.

You'd need to tear down the engine to get to the case, take it to the welder
and have them [hopefully] fit it, then put the engine back together again.  No
simple task for a beginner to say the least.

     Toby Erkson  --  air_cooled_nut@pobox.com
     '72 VW Squareback, '95 VW Jetta, '81 Gold Wing, '73 Porsche 914
     http://www.icbm.org/
     Portland, Oregon

----- Original Message ----- 

> Cooling tin rubbing through sounds right, as the tin on that side was very
> tight against the case. Unfortunately, it did rub all the way through into
> the case. I was turning the engine with the starter to check the compression
> and noticed the crack because oil was running out of it onto the cylinder.
> Would JB weld hold up to hot/cold cycles? I'm afraid that it would not
> expand and contract with the case and come off. The compression check showed
> about 75 on one cylinder, 80 on another, then around 100 on the third, and
> then that's when I noticed the puddle of oil. Do these readings sound right?
> I think that I'm looking at a new set of P/C also, which I kind of planned
> on anyway.

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