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Neil wrote: >I live in Michigan, near John Jaranson's Squareback. Where at? I'm close to John J. myself (about an hour north). >I have a 1970 FI Fastback in Phoenix that a Tempe firm is making run. >(So I can bring my Ebay purchase home.) Have you considered using a tow bar to get it home? This way you wouldn't need it to run, and you could fix it yourself with help from the list. >The FI system is not pulsing the injectors, and it is costing a fortune >for the Tempe firm to diagnose. I can't help you here, as I'm a carb guy. But the list and it's members have shown me FI IS the way to go IF it's ALL still there. Most of mine haven't. :( >So, my inclination is either to: >1) Fly to Phoenix and fix it myself (ECU, harness, or trigger points) >2) Have them install carb(s) and a 009 just to get it home Number 2 might get you home, (without the need for an 009), and it would allow you to reinstall the FI at a later date (when it's warmer). >My preference is to stay fuel injected; but logistically and thus >financially, I may have to switch for a while. Agreed, it's a great system when it's working, but there aren't too many people around that know how to work on it. :( >Even though I will not drive the car much in the Michigan winter salt, >I still need to be able to start and drive it when it is cold. (0 >degrees) I wouldn't drive it the Michigan salt if I could help it. That's what domestic cars are for. : ) That being said, my type3s get started every so often and ran for a while, just to keep everything working correctly (while in "storage"). My Roadster 2 (parked outside in the cold with 2" of snow on it) is currently running Weber 34 ICT's, and it's started up fine while the water cooled Fox wouldn't run to save it's life (it's now been donated because I couldn't use it as a winter car). My son's Roadster is running Solex 32's with the chokes turned off, and it starts up just fine in these colder temps too. I think a lot of the problems can be traced to not being started and ran every so often (my wife's Fastback was like this). >Any recommendations on carb kits? The 32/36 progressive gives me a >choke and butchered engine cover. The dual 34 ICTs have no choke(?) Whatever you do, stay away from the 32/36 progressive!! The ICTs WILL fit under the floor (get the type 3 kit) and work right out of the box. Make sure the kit has a balance tube (probably hose, ask if it has it though, or find a different supplier), as it's required for getting the idle to work correctly, and it helps when setting the mixture. Use the kit with your FI dizzy (leave the vac hose off), as it has a better advance curve than the 009 will ever have. Either use a mechanical fuel pump, or add a low pressure electric one (the FI pump will put out too much pressure for the carbs). Good luck with your new purchase, and Welcome to the list. : ) I hope this helps. Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof 71 Square, now a 2 seat Roadster, pics can be seen at; http://volksrods.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~