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Re: [T3] Rear apron replacement


Fortunately, this is a one-time California car.  The
rot we had (and fixed) was the result of a mouse
nest.  There is surface rust here and there, but
thankfully one of the previous owners was rather
careful to cover any paint chips and/or dings with
primer or paint.
 
Thanks,
Jim

Dave Hall <dave@hallvw.clara.co.uk> wrote:
That sounds about right. You need the rear fenders off
to get at the side
attachment welds. Of course that may show up some
other rust, but that depends
on the car's geographical history.

Dave.
UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/
------
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mysterious J" 
To: "Type 3 Mailing List" 
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 12:00 AM
Subject: [T3] Rear apron replacement


> I'm getting ready to bring our '68 Fastback to the
bodyshop (the scheduled
> drop off date is November 1st) and I'm trying to get
as much of the "rough
> work" done as possible. My cousin is a really good
welder with good
> equipment and facilities (I had him TIG weld some
holes in the car, and
> after finishing you can't tell where the work was
done.) I'm thinking about
> working with him to replace the rear apron, which
has some accident and
> aborted repair attempt damage. I have an NOS panel
to install. His
> specialty is replacing body panels and floor panels
on rusted and accident
> damaged cars, and his work is excellent.
>
> My question is, how is the apron attached to the
body of the car? From what
> I can tell, its attached by spot welds along the top
edge (where the latch
> mechanism is), along the sides (where the beading
goes) and I think by spot
> welds across the middle. Am I missing any spots? How
long should it take
> for a well-equipped shop to do this work? I'm
backward organizing from the
> November 1st drop off date, trying to get everything
done between now and
> then.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim Altemus
> '68 Fastback
>
>
>
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