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On 22 Sep 2003 at 0:44, Mark Seaton wrote: > I spent a nerve wracking weekend removing my engine and dismantling it > suspecting a dropped valve and wreckage that actually turned out to be > nothing other than the accelerator pump tube I lost months ago finally > finding its way into 3 (why 3!?! as if it hasn't got enough to deal with !) Try to look on this as a GOOD thing. You found the problem and it wasn't nearly as bad as you thought it might be. ;-) > I bought new Ps and Cs expecting the worst and I've decided to fit them > anyway- I figured that I don't know much about the cars history and it would > give me peace of mind. > > Are there any recommendations for running in a new set? Clean the cylinders with Comet cleanser then oil them and wipe the oil off. Reoil and wipe again. Repeat until they don't leave black residue on the cloth. Install them wet with oil and run them in varying the rpms. Avoid long periods of running at constant rpm during the break-in period. During this time exercise them over the entire rpm range that you expect them to ever see. > Also I'm going to replace some valves. The guides seem OK but again for > peace of mind I'd like to replace the exhausts. They all look absolutely > fine- no stem wear, good makes (VW stamped) and clean shiny seats. For cost > reasons if I do replace them it will probably be with Osvat valves rather > than genuine VW valves which seem ridiculously expensive. I know that Jim > already warned me against using valves that didn't have a chromed stem. > These don't seem magnetic at all anywhere so I guess they can't be plated. I > found this link though: I'm really picky about exhaust valves. You don't need official VW, but you want a good brand. TRW valves from Brazil are good here. ATe also makes good valves. I would stick with the plated ones unless you have leaded gas. This really is important. Check your valve guide wear carefully. Run your magnet up and down the valve stem; you'll find that parts are magnetic and parts are not. There's some really interesting metallurgy going on there. > Do I need to replace the intakes as well? I'm getting paranoid now about > dropping one but has anyone ever had an intake break? I typically reuse intake valves, but I let my machinist touch up the margins just to make sure they are right. This will also show up any that are warped or bent. I like to lap them all in after the seats are cut. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org