[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]

Re: [T3] CVjoints questions

On 28 Nov 2003 at 13:28, Daniel Baum wrote:

> Anyway. I took off the CV joints and cleaned them up. There are definite 
> signs of wear on both of them. One of them has shiny silver patches on 
> the outer part, and you can see some metal has been worn away. The other 
> one has a small patch of pitting on the inner hub. All twelve balls look 
> perfect. I can send pics if necessary.

They are probably fine. I only replace them if they have lots of rotational 
play, or if something is broken.

> the CV joints cost about $60 each over here. 

That's pretty normal. If I have to replace any, I usually find good used ones. 
Ours are the same as Beetle's and water cooled inners. Type 2 & 4 are larger. 
Good used ones also frequently come with good boots, too. Be aware that the 
type 3 AT axle shafts are different from each other and from those on MT type 
3s and beetles.  

> A couple more questions: Bentley says the lock washers on the screws 
> aren't necessary. As I seem to have them at least on most of the screws, 
> should I keep them or throw them away?

I leave them, since Bentley also says to replace the bolts with shorter ones if 
you leave the washers out. I have spare washers if you need them.

> Finally, should I paint the driveshaft? It's showing a bit of surface 
> rust. I have some red Hammerite lying about which might look nice.

Certainly not necessary in your climate. They originally had a tough black 
paint on them which is usually still mostly there.

> The inevitable happened: One of the screws rounded out as I was trying
> to remove the other drive shaft.

You WERE using the 12 point spline wrench, weren't you? You also have to dig 
all the dirt out of the socket head and then I usually use a hammer to tap the 
driver ALL the way to the bottom of the socket. Make sure you are all the way 
in AND that the driver is not worn. I usually have to dig dirt out of the 
sockets, drive the driver in, pull the driver out, dig out more dirt that the 
driver loosened up, and then tap the driver fully home. Don't apply any torque 
until you're sure you're ALL the way in there.  

If you've really rounded out the socket, then take a cold chisel and strike it 
against the head tangentially. You will probably need to rotate the shaft to 
get a good shot at it; a friend to hold the wheel in the right position might 
be helpful.

> How on earth do I get the bloody thing out now? I've tried vice-grips,
> with no success.

I've never had any luck with vice grips either. I think the heads are just too 

Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org

[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]