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Re: [T3] 74/78 crank?

On 17 Nov 2003 at 16:40, Aaron Clow wrote:

> --- Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote:

> > If not, I 
> > STRONGLY recommend that you do a rather stock
> > rebuild or 2 first. It's very 
> > common for people to get really excited about
> > "upgrading" and then to mess it 
> > all up, throwing away a lot of good money, just
> > because they didn't think that 
> > anything could possibly go wrong.
> Which is why I'm asking the experts here. At this
> point I'm thinking I want to stick with stock
> cylinders/pistons because I'm not at the point where
> I'm ready to futz with the FI at ALL. 

The FI can't tell whether you've changed the bore or the stroke. It doesn't 
know the difference.

> > My recommendations always start with case savers, a
> > counterweighted crank, 
> > balanced drive line, and full flow filter.
> Balanced drive line? 

Flywheel, crankshaft, fan, pulley, rods, pistons, pressure plate, clutch disk.

> What I started thinking was just the 74 or 78
> counterweighted crank, everything else stock except
> for the full-flow. Would that be safe for a newbie &
> would it have any adverse effects on my automatic transmission?

Stroker cranks are expensive and lead to lots of other things you have to do to 
make them work right. You'd be better off just sticking with the stock stroke 
and going to 88s. Berg has some specific bore and stroke max. recommendations 
for type 3s. I don't remember what they are, but he claimed that it was as a 
result of the fact that the engine and the cooling was different from a beetle. 

I don't know how good this info is. I've certainly not done the testing that he 
has, but I think it was also clear that Gene had his biases, too.

The AT should be fine.

Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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