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Brad=> Where is the condensor located? It's clamped to the side of the distributor body. Bosch condensors rarely if ever go bad. => I believe that I probably need to do a valve => adjustment. It's the most important regular maintenance procedure next to oil changes. => I have what appears to be a good book => (chilton's) that covers the type 3 specifically. Find a Bentley or Haynes manual and see if you can get a quarter for the Chilton's at a swap meet or something. You'll be ahead. => I just did an oil change. Was this stupid? No. If the engine is level, you can pull the valve covers with oil in the engine without fear of spills other than the little bit that always pools in a corner of each cover. Have a rag ready for that. => Does a compression test indicate the health => of the valves / seats? To an extent. If you have compression, the valves and seats are doing their jobs. This can't tell you how long they'll continue to do their jobs, however -- only a good look at the head off the engine can verify that. => Next to the coil there is a ceramic component => that I ASSume is a resistor. I can not find that => part in any VW wiring diagrams. What is it => for? Is this standard on a type 3? This sounds like a '50s-style coil resistor. This is not necessary to the stock VW coil, and might even be harmful. You might check to see whether the PO threw on a coil from an old Ford or something. If it doesn't say Bosch, get a Bosch coil and remove the resistor. => The oil breather has 2 pipes coming off of it. The steel tube came originally with a slitted rubber boot at the end. This directs condensed oil vapor to the road when necessary. The rubber hose out the side of the breather connects to the stock air cleaner to recirculate blowby -- primitive emissions control. If you don't have a stock air cleaner, you have nowhere to put this, but I wouldn't cap it. => One of the carberators is leaking, I believe => around the butterfly valve. Is there a rebuild => kit available for these? Butterfly valves commonly need rebushing at this age. It's an easy fix for a skilled machinist and not usually expensive. Gasket kits are relatively easily available for the stock PDSIT carbs. You may find, however, that someone has overtorqued your manifolds or carbs at some point and the mating surfaces just need to be reflatted. => disc shaped portion of the carberator that is => apparently the choke actuator. There is an => electrical connetion there. Next to it is a 6V. You have 6V choke heaters. This isn't unusual in your situation, as 12V PDSIT carbs are relatively rare in the US. If you want working chokes, you'll find that heaters from late Type 2 carbs are the same size. => What is the effect of not having it connected? No choke action. You will probably find that the chokes have been disabled, tightened into the full-open position. Also not unusual. => The timing marks on the pulley should be referenced => to what on the engine? Reference to the case seam above. I infer from this that you don't have the generator pulley cover installed, and that your cooling air is being drawn directly from the exhaust area. Given that you have no body in the area this is probably not quite as bad as it would be in a stock car, but I think you can expect that this will cause early engine death from overheat in any case. Do you have no cover at all to keep junk out of the pulley? Steven Ayres, Prescott AZ '66 KG1600 ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org