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RE: [T3] Engine started! As did new problems...


On 11 Jun 2003 at 23:33, Chris J Valade wrote:

>         Unless someone highly recommends otherwise, I'm going to keep the
> new fan belt on (with two shims--all that were on the pulley--in the
> pulley) since it was quite an experience changing it. One question with
> the casing around the pulley: how important is it that this be sealed?

You can keep in mind that both the belt and the cover should be "fixed" at some 
later time. The belt may wear in and get looser. The cover needs to be as 
sealed as possible so that the engine doesn't suck in hot air to cool itself.

>         The valves were tight enough not to even allow a .04mm gauge to
> slide through at all, and so that none of the rocker arms moved no matter
> how I pushed on them until they were adjusted. I double checked to make
> sure I had the valves in firing position by looking at where the rotor
> was pointing, and thanks to this I caught myself in adjusting the #2
> valves when #4 was in firing position. I was having difficulty initially
> since I didn't realize there are four sets of bridged teeth on the
> crankshaft, two with notches, two without, and because Muir says rotate
> it 180 degrees from one valve to another, and if I were to do that
> (unless I have misunderstood which is very likely) then I would just get
> to valves #1 and #3, or #2 and #4. So far as I could tell there is a 1:1
> ratio between the degrees of the rotor and the crankshaft.

The crank moves 180 for every 90 on the dist, so you actually have to turn the 
engine 180 between cylinders. # 1 & 3 get set on the space with notches, # 2 & 
4 are set on the space without notches.

>         How do I check the tightness of the lower head nuts? Where are
> they? Etc. And what is the torque spec for those nuts? (1972 duel carb
> converted to FI, AT)?

You can see/feel them under the rocker shafts. You have to take the rockers out 
to get to them, but this is easy. The torque is in your manual; I believe it is 
23ft-lbs.

>         Oddly, I didn't notice any increase or decrease in the sound of
> the engine when I took the air filter off, could this be because I have a
> generic air filter (by generic I mean those things they have on the
> shelves in multicolors at some FLAPS) instead of a breather? Should I
> maybe reinstall the breather--for either sound, performance, or both?

You've got OE FI with a generic air cleaner? You should get a FI air cleaner; 
it will fit and work much better (both.) 

>         I found what I believe to be the auxiliary air regulator, i.e. I
> do have one. Instead of the air breather there is a generic filter
> attached to the large opening of the air intake, then below that is a
> small opening with a hose that goes to what I believe to be the AAR (this
> would make sense since that is where the AAR hose is supposed to connect)
> and attached to the AAR is a smaller auxiliary filter. Also, whatever the
> part is, it once had a single red wire coming from it which has been cut
> except for a cm or so of it.

This is the AT AAR. It gets clean air from the air cleaner and meters air, 
depending on temp, into the intake air distributor. If you pull its lower hose 
off then you will get lots of air into the engine which will make it run fast, 
not idle, and the idle adjustment becomes irrelevant. The red wire should be 
connected to 12V so that it warms up as the car warms up. It's got an internal 
heating element.

>         What sort of other information can I receive from a dynamic
> strobe with inductive pickup? 

The inductive pickup will only trigger if current actually flows thru the SP 
wire, so if a plug is not firing the light won't flash (unless the current has 
found an alternate path to ground.) Perhaps the biggest advantage to the 
inductive pickup is that you can quickly move it from SP wire to SP wire 
without stopping the engine, so you can check each plug/wire in turn quickly.

>         I found where the hose from the crankcase breather is supposed to
> go, or so I believe (I'm not even going to try until positive), it is in
> the back of the air intake below a post with a few push on connectors--I
> am basing this on a hose system diagram I looked up. there is a hose
> connected to that port though, and it goes down, out of the engine, and
> connects to what I believe is a part of the transmission (it is the flat
> pan maybe an inch in height and is connected to what I am positive is the
> trans), and is connected to the right most side with some sort of
> regulator, gauge, or something of that sort which then connects to the
> pan. What is it that this hose is connected to? Is this correct? Should I
> modify it?

That hose is not the breather hose. That hose carries intake manifold vacuum to 
the vacuum modulator on the AT. That controls the shift points so they change 
depending on the throttle position, which changes the vacuum.

The crankcase breather is a black rectangular box at the right rear top of the 
engine. It should have a single hose which feeds blowby gasses into the air 
cleaner so that they can be burned.

If you don't already have a Bentley manual, you should get one:

Volkswagen Official Service Manual
Type 3 Fastback and Squareback 1968-1973
published by Robert Bentley, Cambridge, Mass, 1974
ISBN 0-8376-0057-X / LPV 997 383 / VSQU
(excellent book, complete and well written)

-- 
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA

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