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On 2 Jun 2003 at 2:47, Chris J Valade wrote: > I fixed the wire from the horn connected to a plate with bolts (i > believe connecting the steering column to the knuckle, not sure) and now > the lights turn on and the car turns over, so whatever the wire was, it > was needed. Although, the horn still doesn't work. What year is this again? If this is FI rather than carbs then there are a pair of wires that run to the fuel pump under the gas tank. Perhaps you just grounded the pump ground wire, which needs to be grounded but that usually happens inside the car. Nothing related to the horn wires should affect the starting. > Also, it seems that real TDC for my car is actullaly when the > rotor is pointing away from #1 since once I got it to turn and timed it > to that position, it started.. It's quite possible that the drive gear is in there wrong, so you've done what you need to do at this point. Just put this on your list of things to fix someday. > I'm now suspect of the coil since the test Muir gives resulted in a > dark orange spark, then when I just tested it I got nothing from both > of the coils I've got, but I am getting full voltage from the ignition > to the coil. I then tested the voltage coming from the coil to the > distributor (the thick one, not the small green one) with a voltmeter > and got 6V--I would think that I should get some sort of spark at 6V, > but it seems this isn't the case, am I right? If so, anyone know where > I can get a good blaster coil that would fit my engine? Would an MSD > Blaster 2 Ignition Coil work? And would I need a new dist, dist cap, > or something else to make sure I don't burn up something with too much > voltage? There is no better coil for this car than the one that came with it. You can spend lots more money, but that only buys you "bragging rights" not performance. Is this a 6V car? I thought it was later. 67 or later should give you 12V at that coil terminal. > Anyhow, I'm sure that the > fan belt needs to be tightened as well, but I'm sort of stuck with that > until I can find something I can use to remove the generator pulley > nut--I may just have to end up making the tool Muir suggests, or if I can > find an offset open end wrench big enough I think it would work too. Compared to most other cars the fan belt on a type 3 doesn't need to be very tight. Unless you hear it squealing, tightening will only shorten its lifetime and possibly also the lifetime of the generator bearings. > It seems then that my dist was installed incorrectly, since the > rotor doesn't move by hand, and the number begins with 311. Once the drive gear is installed, there is only one way that the dist can go in. So you have to attack the drive gear, later.... Here's another quick check you should do on your dist if it is later than 67. Grab the rotor and twist it CW. It should turn ~15 deg and then snap back on its own when you release it. If it doesn't do this then the mechanical advance is not working and the car just won't run right until it is fixed. > I'm aware it should be .006", although I though it was .15mm > instead of .08mm. I tried that first, but then .04mm to see if that > would even fit and to get myself acquanted with where it was supposed to > slide through. Besides all that though, it turns out I have long studs > and based on what Muir said I believe the gauge I need is different for > that reason and I have no idea what it is. What year again? .004" = 0.1mm, .006" = 0.15mm, .008" = 0.2mm. > Next time I check out the valves (I wait till the sun has been > down for awhile so I don't burn myself on the hot concrete--its been > getting up to 100/42C in Vegas, the normal temp that is, so the concrete > is even better) I will also check #3. From what I remember (I didn't > look that carefully) the valve springs were either the same or very > slightly different, and I did notice a drastic difference when the engine > had been turned to somewhere besides TDC. I pushed on both sides of the > rocker arm, both with the same result. I will also have someone rotate > the engine while I watch the valves, even though I believe I've figured > out the timing problem it is good to be doubly certain, and besides it > will give me a better feel for the valves. Adjusting the valves gives you a good chance to check your understanding of the firing points of the cylinders. Of course you've gotten it to run and there's no better test of your understanding than that. > Although I'm relieved to find out why so much oil was coming out > and that it isn't a problem=) I don't remember what the cause of this was supposed to be? > What is starting fluid and how do I give a shot of it to the air > cleaner connection? It's an aerosol can filled with a highly volitile fuel. You just spray it in the intake and the engine suck it in and burns it instead of gas. It's usually a last resort in extremely cold weather. You may not even find it for sale where you are, and I really don't think you want to even try. I understand that it can be hard on an engine, -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org