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Re: [T3] Timing


on 2/6/2003 7:47 PM, Chris J Valade at redyouth@juno.com wrote:

> I fixed the wire from the horn connected to a plate with bolts (i
> believe connecting the steering column to the knuckle, not sure) and now
> the lights turn on and the car turns over, so whatever the wire was, it
> was needed.  Although, the horn still doesn't work.

Was it a round rubber 'plate', with four bolts in it? If so, that is the
flexible coupling that connects the steering column to the steering box
input shaft. The wire there provides ground to the horn ring, so that when
you push it it grounds out through the steering wheel and makes the horn go.
That shouldn't have anything to do with the starting problem, perhaps it was
just a coincidence.

> I'm now suspect
> of the coil since the test Muir gives resulted in a dark orange spark,
> then when I just tested it I got nothing from both of the coils I've got,
> but I am getting full voltage from the ignition to the coil.  I then
> tested the voltage coming from the coil to the distributor (the thick
> one, not the small green one) with a voltmeter and got 6V--I would think
> that I should get some sort of spark at 6V, but it seems this isn't the
> case, am I right?

To check the voltage at the coil, put the red test probe on the terminal
that has the black 'small' wire coming off it (the 15 or + terminal), and
the black test probe on the generator body. That should read about 6V (if
you have a 6V car). Next, pull the black thick wire that goes from the coil
to the centre of the distributor cap. Get an assistant, and tell them to
turn the engine over, while you hold the big black wire about 1/2" away from
the engine case (hold it with some pliers or something so it doesn't bite
you). When your assistant turns the engine over, you should see a spark jump
out the end of the wire. Is this what you are getting?

> If so, anyone know where I can get a good blaster coil
> that would fit my engine?  Would an MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil work?
> And would I need a new dist, dist cap, or something else to make sure I
> don't burn up something with too much voltage?

A stock coil will work just fine, and will probably be cheaper than a
'performance' coil.

> It seems then that my dist was installed incorrectly, since the
> rotor doesn't move by hand, and the number begins with 311.

If the rotor doesn't move and spring back when you turn it clockwise, it
might need some oil in the top of the shaft, or it might be a vacuum only
advance. If you pull the rotor off the shaft and look down the centre of it,
do you see a felt pad? If you do, put a couple of drops of oil in there, and
see if you can work the rotor back and forth to get the advance moving
again.

> I'm aware it should be .006", although I though it was .15mm
> instead of .08mm.  I tried that first, but then .04mm to see if that
> would even fit and to get myself acquanted with where it was supposed to
> slide through.  Besides all that though, it turns out I have long studs
> and based on what Muir said I believe the gauge I need is different for
> that reason and I have no idea what it is.

What year is your engine? You can find that out from the engine number that
is on the top of the case, down the centreline next to the oil cooler. If
there is no number there, also look underneath the breather where the
breather joins to the engine case.

> I pushed on both sides of the
> rocker arm, both with the same result.  I will also have someone rotate
> the engine while I watch the valves, even though I believe I've figured
> out the timing problem it is good to be doubly certain, and besides it
> will give me a better feel for the valves.

When adjusting them, you push on the bottom side (pushrod side) of the
rocker, just to take up any slack.

Sounds like you are making progress anyway, keep asking questions here and
you will have it running in no time!

Ben Doughney

'75 1200L
'63 1200 - Ringo
'71 1600TL
'65 1500N - Val

http://members.tripod.com/~superkafer/ 

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